Northwestern Montana
	Accommodations& Services in this Region

Fishing and Camping in Northwestern Montana

This section on northwestern Montana includes the Kootenai River and the Flathead River (three forks). The book provides readers with access points and take-out points for all of the major rivers in northwestern Montana.  In addition, descriptions and directions are provided for the tributary streams and creeks as well as the lakes which may be reached in a day hike!  The book reflects 15 years of guiding experience in western Montana.

Highway 200 – The Idaho Border to the Junction with Highway 93 North of Missoula

MM 0: Idaho Border.

MM 3.7: Heron, Montana.

MM 10.5 Junction with Montana State Highway 56 to Troy, Montana. (See Highway 56.)

MM 11: Bull River Campground

26 campsites, two pull-throughs, water, flush toilets, fully-developed boat launch, fee area.

MM 14: Gas and store.

MM 15.5: Noxon, Montana.

MM 18.5: Noxon Rapids Dam.

MM 26.7: North Shore Campground

12 campsites, water, toilets, fully-developed boat launch, fee area.

MM 27: Cabinet Ranger Station.

MM 28: Vermillion River

The lower section of the river is slow fishing, but above the falls about 11 miles from the highway, the river (creek) provides good fishing for creek-size cutthroats and brookies. If you arrive in the fall, cross your fingers that you will find and entice a big brown up from the Clark Fork.

MM 29-30: Trout Creek, Montana.

MM 41: Gas and country store.

MM 47: Fishing access and boat launch.

MM 49.5: Thompson Falls State Park

17 campsites, 55-foot trailer space.

MM 50-52: Thompson Falls, Montana.

MM 56: Thompson River, Junction with Thompson River Road

Thompson River Road follows the river and intersects with Highway 2 to Libby or Kalispell.

The Thompson River flows from the Thompson Lake chain to the Clark Fork River. Considered one of the best streams in the area, the Thompson River is pounded by catch-and-eat fishermen who have easy access to the river along Thompson River Road #56 and the private logging road on the east side of the river. Road #56 parallels the river for almost 40 miles. If you plan on camping and fishing, Copper King Campground (USFS) offers a nice campground right on the river four miles from the junction with Highway 200. Offering five sites, the campground has no drinking water. Above the campground the road begins a single-lane dirt and gravel road with a number of intersecting logging roads. The Thompson River is worth the dusty ride, as the stream and road wind up through wooded mountainsides and canyons to the meadow section. A free-flowing stream, the Thompson River produces healthy populations of 10- to 12-inch rainbows, along with some hefty browns and bull trout in the lower section. Small cutthroats and brook trout are the staple in the upper river.

The Thompson River kicks off in the spring with a healthy Salmon Fly hatch and an abundance of Grannom caddis. Late summer brings out the hoppers, drakes and Baetis hatches all the way into the fall. The Thompson is just fun to fish. For the most part, fly fishers need only present an attractor pattern on a short cast to hungry trout!

The river is easily fished with lightweight spinning rods and fly rods. It offers a little bit of everyone’s favorite type of water, from small riffles and pools to long glides and deep pockets in the canyon section. During late summer and early fall, large stonefly nymphs such as the Bitch Creek and Woolly Buggers are the choice patterns of fly fishers searching for the early browns and bulls heading up from the Clark Fork to spawn.

MM 63: Big Horn Sheep Viewing Area.

MM 75: Plains, Montana.

MM 77: Junction with Highway 28 to Elmo, Montana, and Highway 93.

MM 81.7: Paradise, Montana.

MM 85: Junction with Highway 135 to St. Regis, Montana, and Interstate 90.

MM 96: Junction with Highway 382 cutoff north to Hot Springs, Montana.

MM 109: Dixon, Montana

Dixon has a boat launch on the Flathead River, which is popular with local pike fishermen. Floating down to the Perma Bridge is almost 17 miles so plan on a long day. This would be a great stretch for a canoeist or family float. However, don’t forget to purchase a tribal use permit.

MM 110.2: Junction with Route 212 to the National Bison Range, Charlo, Montana, and the Ninepipe Wildlife Refuge on Highway 93.

MM 116: Bridge over the Jocko River (Flathead Indian Reservation).

Junction with Highway 93.

Highway 56 to Troy

MM 0: Junction with Highway 56 a few miles west of Noxon, Montana.

MM 7.8: Bridge over the Bull River

Fishing and boat launching.

Bull River

Warning: The last four miles of the Bull River run down through a canyon to meet the Clark Fork. During spring this section offers some nasty whitewater, and during the summer the same stretch calls for dragging your raft or canoe over a lot of shallow, rocky stretches. With the exception of a few lurking bull trout, the Bull River hosts 8- to 12-inch rainbows and cutthroats. Mostly the river meanders through bottomland that is posted. The river is narrow, slow, clear and deceptively deep in places. Once summer arrives, the trout have less cover and tend to hide in or around grassy tendrils along the bottom of the stream, as well as those shady banks afforded by willow and tag alder. Floating access is at the bridges.

MM 8.9: East Fork Bull River, St. Paul Lake Trailhead

At 1.3 miles the road forks left to the north fork and the St. Paul Lake trailhead, which is six miles from the highway. St. Paul Lake is a three-mile hike. Although it lacks in scenery, the lake fishes well for 10- to 14-inch cutthroats. Below the trailhead the creek is small and offers good fishing for typical creek-sized trout. You have to look for a pullout and scramble down to the creek. Plan on heavy brush and pocket water. At 1.3 mileage turn right and go one mile to a historic ranger station and a great spot to fish the lower creek.

MM 11.6: Pullout access and boat launching access.

MM 13.8: Fishing access.

MM 15: Fishing access and canoe launch.

MM 16: South Fork Bull River Too small to be worthwhile.

MM 16.8: Ross Creek Cedar Picnic Site and Bad Medicine Campground

17 campsites, water, toilets, fully-developed boat launch, fee area.

MM 21: Dorr Skeel Campground (Bull Lake)

Seven campsites, toilets, fully-developed boat launch, non-fee.

Side Trip – Spar Lake

MM 29.4: Spar Lake Campground, Chase Cutoff

MM 16.5: Lake Creek Road

Affording little access due to private property, Lake Creek surely has some bragging rights for the prettiest creek in the area. Nonetheless, bridge crossing and a few non-posted spots provide a sampling of this beautiful creek. I came upon one couple who fished right from the side of the road. The wife had just killed a 16-inch rainbow dragging a night crawler through a small hole next to the road. The Lake Creek Road is actually a loop that connects Highway 56 with Spar Lake via Chase Cutoff. The upper road is gravel all the way with a few washboard sections. From the highway to the lake is 17.4 miles.

Spar Lake Campground

Eight campsites, water, toilets, non-fee.

MM 32.4: Savage Lake

A relatively small lake of about 100 acres, Savage Lake is surrounded by summer homes with only one public access right off the highway. Belly boaters have fun on this lake for both cold- and warm-water species.

MM 35: Junction with Highway 2

Go west to Troy or east to Libby.

Highway 2 – The Idaho Border to Libby

The Kootenai River

The Kootenai River, from Libby Dam 17 miles downriver to Libby, is another great tailwater fishery for Montana. After years of pressure from anglers, biologists and local concerned citizens, the days of wild water fluctuations have come to an end. Posing danger to fishers and floaters, the erratic rise and fall of the river also posed a threat to the insect larva stranded high and dry by the whims of a dam Army Corps engineer. With current standards for water drawdown, insect larva have a chance to retreat into deeper receding water. With consistent yearly insect survival, the Kootenai River gets better every year.

Sitting in the Kootenai Angler, I overheard Dave Blackburn’s exuberant announcement to a local fisherman that Green Drakes had appeared in the river, possibly washed down from the Fisher River. Being one of the first fly fishing guide service on the Kootenai River, Dave and his guides are intimately acquainted with all the nuances and fluctuations of this tailwater fishery. In his 1998 newsletter (e-mail kangler@libby.org), Dave talks about the genetic verification of native redband trout in the Kootenai River. Indigenous to the Columbia River drainage, redband trout are noted for having larger spots and a darker background. Dave reports that they are both acrobatic and strong fighters. In addition to a healthy population of trout averaging 2,400 per mile below the dam, one advantage to this large tailwater marvel is the extended season.

Dave reports that the cold waters of March and April provide fishing opportunities for rainbows during the spawning period. Although the water can be off-colored, anglers can experience some good nymphing and streamer fishing. During May and June the water begins to warm, precipitating the emergence of caddis and the Western March Brown. Dry fly fishing heats up, and by far the most important hatch is the PMDs ranging in size 14 to 16 in the early summer to size 18 in the latter part of summer. July and August may bring the heat to the fishermen, but the warmer water activates fish feeding on both dry flies and hoppers. The fall brings foliage change and clarity to the river. With lots of mid-day hatches, trout are eager to store up fat reserves for the winter. According to Dave, however, winter is a long time coming on the Kootenai River. The Kootenai season is extended with warm water releases in the 50s, and the fish are still active all the way into December.

Wade fishing is best from 8,000 cubic feet per second to 12,000 cfs. It is next to impossible during high water releases of over 15,000 cfs. When the water rises, guides and float fishermen move to the side channels for the larger trout. Popular float trips originate at the dam with the final take-out in the town of Libby. The 17-mile section can be broken up into a number of potential float trips, depending how much time one would like to spend on the water. Below Libby are the deadly Kootenai Falls.

Powerboat operators fishing below the Libby Bridge should first confer with a local expert. Although the world record rainbow at 33 pounds, one ounce, was caught at the outlet of the dam, the average catch of the day will be around 10 to 14-inches with plenty of 18+-inch trout to challenge any angler.

Overlooked for years by the fly fishing public who ply the waters of the Madison and Missouri, people in the know are looking to the northwest. A tour of the Clark Fork drainage rivers and then a sampling of the Kootenai provides excellent trout fishing.

Lake Koocanusa

Straddling the border with 48 miles in Montana and 42 miles in British Columbia, Lake Koocanusa was formed with the creation of the Libby Dam in 1971. Alice Beers of Rexford, Montana, coined the name for the lake. The name combines the first part of Kootenai, the second part “can” from Canada and the last three letters for “USA”. The lake is immense and offers very marginal shore fishing. The principal draw is the prodigious numbers of kokanee salmon ranging from 11 to 14-inches. Large kamloop rainbows lure boat fishers from all around the region. Boaters will find plenty of water to fish with over 46,000 surface acres. Campground and boat launches are spread evenly around the lake.

Highway 2 Mileage Markers

MM 1.9: Fishing access to the Kootenai River

The access is right next to a residence. Drive one mile to a parking place, but do not drive the last two-tenths of a mile to the old bridge – it is steep at the bottom and there is little room to turn around. The road is bumpy and unmaintained and leads to a closed bridge. Upriver from the bridge is a long bank with shallow water. Park up from the bridge and follow the trail down to the river. This could be a good evening spot in the early summer or fall.

MM 3: Junction with Route 508 to Yaak, Montana

Two dueling bars face each other across the street.

Side Trip – Highway 2: Route 508 • The Yaak River

Yaak River

The Yaak River is a fair-sized tributary of the Kootenai River, which enters at the Yaak Campground. The Yaak River splits the campground, which provides good access to both rivers as well as a boat launch. It has two distinct types of water. Below the falls by the Yaak Falls Campground (non-fee), the river quickly drops in elevation, which provides lots of holding water down through a steep canyon gorge. A haven to some big bull trout, the canyon is difficult to access, and much of it is posted. After a long hike down the canyon during a heat spell, I caught a few fish in the 12-inch range, but most of the ones I caught were 8 to 10, which is more typical of the river in general. Good water may be found above the falls, but a good portion of it flattens out and heats up during summer. Above and below the town of Yaak, the river looks like a slough, and most of it runs through private property. This valley section is home to a lot of small brookies, rainbows and a few small cutthroats. The Yaak Falls Campground offers seven campsites, toilets, and is a non-fee area. It offers a great swimming hole, if you are hot and driving through the area. At mile marker 27 the Yaak picks up some speed.

Seventeen Mile Creek

A few miles above the Yaak Falls Campground, Seventeen Mile Creek Road is closed and gated due to flood damage. It is also a wildlife sanctuary. The lower stretch of the creek can be accessed at the first right turn, which provides an access by the bridge. The area is posted, so stay in the creek. Take Seventeen Mile Creek 4.5 miles to the gate and hike into a great little creek. This would be a good creek to ride in on a mountain bike, as the closed road parallels the creek. The first 4.5 miles of the creek is blocked by private property.

MM 15.6: Red Top Recreation

Five primitive camping sites.

MM 20.9: Bridge access to the south fork.

MM 24.1: Whitetail Campground

12 campsites, water, toilets, fee area, right on the river.

MM 26.8: Pete Creek Campground

12 campsites, water, toilets, fee area.

Return to Highway 2

MM 6.2: Yaak Campground, Boat Launch

44 campsites, pull-throughs, water, toilets, fee area.

MM 7.8: Fishing access

The turn-around offers a jeep trail which follows the river downstream.

MM 10: Fishing access, boat launch

Follow Forest Drive and then Beachward Trail a half-mile to a nice boat launch.

MM 10: Kilbrennan Lake: 9.2 miles

Kilbrennan Lake is a 59-acre lake, and is deep in the middle. At the far end of the lake is a non-fee campground and a boat launch. The lake is full of perch and bullhead, but boat fishermen can catch good numbers of brook trout on the side of the lake opposite the road. Locals tend to fill up this campground Thursday through Sunday. Seven campsites, toilets, non-fee.

MM 11.8: Bridge crossing.

MM 14: Troy, Montana; Kootenai River boat launch

Turn on Third Street and drive four-tenths of a mile, and then turn left on Riverside Drive another four-tenths of a mile to the launch.

MM 15: Callahan Creek Road

Callahan Creek is not accessible in its lower reaches near Troy, as the road climbs up the mountain for a number of miles. To fish this creek, you will need to drive all the way back to the bridge by the south fork and north fork. From this point you can fish the main stem of the creek or the forks. The creek is boulder-strewn, however, so walking is tough for the young and old. Fish for small cutthroats. The road is paved all the way with the exception of the last mile and a half. From the highway to the bridge is 7.5 miles.

MM 21: Kootenai Falls Scenic Trail

MM 22.2: Fishing access along the railroad track.

MM 23: Fishing access (rapids).

MM 30: Libby, Montana.

Highway 37 – Libby to Eureka

Side Trip – Route 567 from Libby to Yaak

Route 68 and Pipe Creek

Follow California Street out of Libby and cross the Kootenai River (boat launch just by the bridge). California Street changes to Route 567. Take Route 567 (also called Pipe Creek Road) to Yaak, a distance of 37 miles. Pipe Creek gets fairly small during the summer. Nonetheless, it offers good fishing for small trout. The East Fork of Pipe Creek is a tiny, brushy creek holding small brookies.

Rainbow Lake

One lake that is worth fishing is Rainbow Lake at mileage marker 22. Rainbow Lake is reached on Road #4712. It is a bit bumpy and narrow, and a second-gear pull in places. A little over 30 acres, the lake is a small circular lake with a grassy-lined shoreline. You cannot drive to the lake. From the small parking area, you have to follow a trail three minutes down to the lake. This is a great lake for a canoe or belly boat. It offers fair catches of cutthroats.

Vinal Lake (Road 746 MM 32.3)

Vinal Lake is about eight miles on Road 746 that forks north. You will need to hike a half-mile to the lake. Easily fished from the shoreline, this 18-acre lake fishes well for 12-inch rainbows. Continuing on Route 68 to Yaak, the road follows the South Fork of the Yaak River. The south fork is very small and posted.

Return to Highway 37

Highway 37 from Libby to Eureka, via Lake Koocanusa

Highway 37 passes the Libby Dam via Lake Koocanusa 66 miles to Eureka and then into Canada on Highway 93 to Banff and Jasper National Parks in British Columbia. Parallel to this highway is a paved road on the other side of the lake that intersects with the highway at the Koocanusa Bridge, a distance of 45 miles. Take California Street to the bridge crossing and the city boat launch.

MM 1: Ranger Station Information.

MM 13: Canoe Gulch Ranger Station

USFS information on camping and boating facilities.

MM 8.9: Boat launch on the Kootenai River.

MM 14: Junction with the Fisher River and the Fisher River Road #763

Fisher River is more like a creek and has fair fishing.

Side Trip – The Fisher River

Fisher River, Shortcut to Highway 2 connecting Kalispell and Libby

The Fisher River access is at mileage marker 14 on Highway 37 a few miles below the Libby Dam. The Fisher River is only fair fishing for small rainbows and whitefish. The road is paved and runs 24 miles to meet Highway 2. The road is narrow in places. Primitive campsites may be found throughout the Fisher River drainage.

Return to Highway 37

MM 13: Dunn Creek Recreation Campground

MM 15: Libby Dam

The dam road can be crossed to Souse Gulch adjacent to the dam, which provides picnicking as well as a boat launch. You may follow this road downstream to Blackwell Flats Campground. Both Blackwell and Dunn Creek Flats provide boat launches. Along Lake Koocanusa are a series of campgrounds and marinas. Lake Koocanusa is a popular lake for boaters.

MM 23.8: Koocanusa Resort

Public boat launch.

Rocky Gorge Campground

120 campsites, water, toilets, fully-developed boat launch, fee area.

MM 48.8: Peck Gulch

75 camping sites, picnicking, boat launch, water, toilets, fee area.

MM 61.5: Rexford, Montana; Rexford Bench Complex

Campground with 54 campsites, water, flush toilets, fee area, boating site with 33 campsites, water, flush toilets, fully-developed boat launch, fee area.
Kamloops Terrace: 50 campsites, water, flush toilets, fee area.

MM 64: Tobacco River access

MM 64.8: Eureka airport, Tetrault Lake, Sophie Lake, fishing access on Lake Koocanusa

Tetrault is periodically stocked with Arlee rainbows and is a popular lake with the locals. Bill Myra of Green Mountain Sports reported that the lake was scheduled for poisoning sometime in 1998 so that the lake could be managed as a trophy trout lake.

Sophie Lake

Sophie Lake offers a full range of fish species. This 200-acre lake has recently been stocked with kamloop rainbows.

MM 66.8: Junction with Highway 93, a mile from Eureka.

Highway 2 – Libby to Kalispell

MM 30: Libby, Montana.

MM 44: Howard Lake Loop

The loop follows Libby Creek and Howard Lake and exits again on Highway 2 at MM 56.8. A small 34-acre lake 14 miles from the highway, Howard Lake is a popular fishing lake for rainbows from 8 to 14 inches. The lake has a popular campground with nine campsites, water, toilets, small boat launch, and it is a fee area. Libby Creek follows the highway a number of miles outside of Libby, but it offers only fair fishing. The Howard Lake outlet creek is a tiny creek holding small rainbows.

MM 56.8: Howard Lake Loop

Taking the Silver Butte Road #148 will both lead you to another fork of the Fisher River, which provides creek-type fishing as well as a junction with Highway 200 near Trout Creek. The road is narrow and winding.

MM 63.4: Pleasant Valley Campground

Pleasant Valley Fisher River Section.

MM 65.8: Lyons Spring Campground St. Regis Company.

MM 69: McKillop Road #535

This paved road leads north to the main stem of the Fisher River and exits out on Highway 37 14 miles above Libby and just a few miles from the Libby Dam. The road is 32 miles long; the first eight miles are narrow and wind high up on the side of the mountains. Called the McKillop Road, it intersects with Fisher River Road #763.

Thompson Chain of Lakes

MM 69 to MM 86:

The Thompson Chain of Lakes, stretching along Highway 2 for 17 miles between Libby and Kalispell, quite possibly offers more fishing variety than any other stretch of highway in Montana. Nineteen lakes ranging in size from three acres to 1,300 acres, the chain boosts both warm-water game fish and cold-water trout. The area offers 60 campsites.

Perch, pumpkinseeds, largemouth bass and northern pike cruise through Crystal, Horseshoe, Lavon, Little Loon, Little McGregor, Loon, Lower Thompson, Middle Thompson and Upper Thompson Lakes. Rainbows, eastern brook and cutthroats can be located together or isolated in Banana, Bootjack, Cad, Cibid, Leon, Lilly Pad, Little Loon, Little McGregor, Loon, Lower Thompson, Middle Thompson, Myron, Rainbow, Topless and Upper Thompson Lakes.

Compressed into a 17-mile stretch, sprinkle in kokanee salmon and browns and anglers have enough variety and challenges to last a lifetime. Best of all, some of the lakes hold huge lake trout in the 10- to 20-pound range; however, with the illegal introduction of pike to some of the lakes, trout and bass numbers have declined in some of the lakes. What follows is a listing of the lakes starting with Loon Lake and progressing towards McGregor Lake, which is 28 miles from Kalispell.

Camping is allowed only in the 60 designated campsites spread throughout the chain of lakes.

MM 70: Loon Lake

238 acres, 114 feet maximum depth. Contains yellow perch, rainbow, largemouth bass, Eastern brook trout. Day use only. Concrete boat launch.

Little Loon Lake

South of Loon Lake. 11.6 acres, 38 feet maximum depth. Contains cutthroat, largemouth bass, and small mouth bass. Dirt ramp.

Leon Lake

Southwesterly tip of Loon Lake. 22 acres, 22 feet maximum depth. Contains yellow perch, cutthroats. Dirt ramp.

Horseshoe Lake

159 acres, 133 feet maximum depth. Contains pumpkinseed, largemouth bass, whitefish. Concrete boat ramp.

Cibid Lake

11 acres, 60 feet maximum depth. Contains rainbows. Day use only.

Banana Lake

Across the highway from Horseshoe Lake. Contains rainbows and cutthroats. Day use only.

Topless Lake

Clustered along with Lilly Pad Lake, Bootjack Lake and Lavon Lake between Horseshoe Lake and Crystal Lake, Topless Lake is 9.2 acres and holds cutthroat. Lilly Pad Lake is a three-acre lake holding brook trout and largemouth bass. Bootjack Lake is a 12-acre lake holding cutthroats and rainbows. The lake is mostly on private land, but there is public access if you can find it.

Lavon Lake

17 acres, 91 feet. Contains yellow perch, kokanee salmon, rainbow, largemouth bass. Day use only.

Crystal Lake

178 acres, 154 feet. Contains yellow perch, kokanee salmon, rainbow, largemouth bass. Dirt ramp.

MM 74: Rainbow Lake

A small lake nestled up against Upper Thompson Lake at the northern end, Rainbow Lake is 20 acres and has no public access.

Upper Thompson

375 acres, 50 feet. Contains yellow perch, northern pike, largemouth bass, pumpkinseeds, rainbows, small mouth bass. Concrete boat ramp.

MM 77: Middle Thompson Lake

Contains yellow perch, northern pike, largemouth bass, pumpkinseeds, rainbows and small mouth bass. Logan State Park Campground: Logan has 39 campsites and trailer spaces up to 40 feet. Gravel ramp.

Lower Thompson Lake

Contains yellow perch, rainbow, largemouth bass, pumpkinseeds, kokanee salmon, northern pike, brown trout. Concrete boat launch.

Little McGregor Lake

North side of the highway. 40 acres. Contains brook trout, cutthroat, yellow perch, large mouth bass. Dirt ramp.

MM 85: McGregor Lake

1,328 acres. Contains lake trout, rainbow, yellow perch, whitefish. McGregor Lake Campground has 15 campsites accommodating trailer space up to 32 feet. Dirt ramp.

MM 100.7: Little Bitterroot Lake

Almost three miles long and a half-mile wide, the lake is a recreational lake with summer homes and boating activities. Nonetheless, the lake fishes well for perch, kokanee salmon and nice-size rainbows.

MM 105: Ashley Lake

Another large recreation lake, Ashley Lake offers good fishing for kokanee salmon and nice-sized rainbows.

MM 110: Smith Lake

A marshy, shallow 300 acre lake, Smith Lake has one state access site to launch a boat. The lake fishes well for perch and bass.

MM 120: Kalispell, Montana.

Highway 93 North – Missoula to Kalispell

Highway 93 continues west of Missoula from Exit 96 on Interstate 90. From the Interstate 90 exit, it is 17 miles to Arlee, 27 miles to the junction with Highway 200 and 112 miles to Kalispell. Highway 93 from Missoula to the Canadian border covers almost 188 miles through some of the most beautiful country in western Montana. Exiting Interstate 90 onto Highway 93 north, the highway cuts across the Flathead Indian Reservation towards Flathead Lake.

The majestic Mission Mountains rise straight up from the valley floor as the highway passes through the towns of Arlee, St. Ignatius and Polson. A few miles north of Polson, visitors will come to a crest and be struck by the size and beauty of Flathead Lake, the largest natural lake west of the Great Lakes. Highway 93 follows the east shore of the lake to Kalispell, or travelers may choose Highway 35 to Bigfork and then reconnect with Highway 93 at the head of the lake.

From Kalispell, travelers to Glacier National Park may route themselves on Highway 93 to Whitefish, take the mid-way Highway 2 or pick up Highway 35 which turns into Route 206 to Columbia Falls.

Flathead Indian Reservation

Established July 16, 1885, as part of the Hellgate Treaty, the Salish and Kootenai tribes were forced to move to the Flathead Indian Reservation. Encompassing 1.2 million acres, the reservation has as its northern boundary Flathead Lake, which is almost 27 miles long and 16 miles wide at its widest point. To the east the reservation is bordered by the towering Mission Mountains. Across the rolling pothole country to the west, the reservation is bordered by the Cabinet Mountains. Although originally including portions of the Bitterroot Valley, those lands were lost in subsequent revisions of the treaty, which was typical of Indian treaties in general. Fishing on the reservation requires a special tribal stamp and a recreation permit. The reservation offers excellent angling opportunities for warm-water species such as perch, bass and pike as well as all the major trout species.

The reservation offers alpine lakes, streams, ponds and reservoirs. Tribal wildlife managers continually work to upgrade the quality of riparian habitat for enhancement of native salmonids. The Jocko River is testimony to their efforts, providing good fishing for browns, cutthroats and rainbows. Local fishermen boast that Kicking Horse and Ninepipe Reservoir offer some of the best largemouth bass fishing in the region. And there is always the prospect of landing a 20-pound pike on the lower Flathead River or hiking into the Mission Mountains for native westslope cutthroats, brook trout and rainbows. The Flathead Reservation offers over a million acres of fishing opportunities. Stop in at Ronan Sports and Western in Ronan for fishing information on the reservation.

The southern half of Flathead Lake is part of the reservation. During the past 15 years a number of changes have impacted the lake, most notably the introduction of mysis shrimp, which precipitated the decline of the kokanee salmon. Preyed upon by lake trout, native cutthroats, bull trout and kokanee salmon have declined steadily during the past two decades.

Many local experts believe that a growing balance between species is possible and does not necessitate over-harvesting the lake trout. The average lake trout is 20 inches, and 20 pounds is not uncommon. The best fishing is from October to December, when lake trout are spawning in the shallows along the lake. Fishing guides boast of large catches of these prodigious lunkers with jig-type lures.

Flathead Lake

A number of launch sites are available at private marinas as well as the three state parks. Contrary to popular belief, many areas are safe for fishing out of a small boat, if boaters are observant of the weather and don’t venture too far from the shoreline. The Flathead Lake fishery has changed dramatically with the invasion of the mysis shrimp in the early 1980s. Introduced in the ‘60s and ‘70s opossum shrimp were planted by fisheries management across the western United States and Canada to increase the growth of kokanee salmon. Unfortunately, their proclivity for avoiding light and their habit of resting in deep water adversely impacted both the populations of cutthroat and kokanee. Mysis awake from their lairs at depths of 100 feet and rise to the surface at night to feed on zooplankton, the same food source preferred by kokanee.

By first light they have safely settled again on the bottom, quite out of reach of their intended prey, the kokanee. The zooplankton populations crashed. Unfortunately, the beneficiary of the mysis shrimp is the lake trout, who grow fat on both shrimp and kokanee. Today large populations of lake trout may be caught throughout the lake. Lake trout (mackinaw or “macs”) are primarily fish predators with whitefish as their main course.

“They prefer colder water and are usually found near the bottom, although they can be found at all depths when the water is cold. Generally fish 30 to 100 feet deep for smaller (2-5 lb.) lakers and over 100 feet deep for larger lake trout, but expect lots of mixing of sizes. Generally, look for areas that will concentrate bait fish such as points, sloping areas of large rubble, or flats adjacent to drop-offs or steep slopes. Expansive flats may not hold many fish. A fish finder helps locate likely spots and may locate schools of bait fish or lake trout, but lake trout can hold so tight to the bottom most fish finders won’t show them.

“Lake trout prefer dim light so the best fishing is dawn to mid-morning.... Lake trout up to five pounds eat lots of shrimp and can be delicious fried, baked barbecued, or smoked....

“Vertical jigging...has really revolutionized lake trout fishing since it is simple, productive, and requires little gear. A medium-weight spinning or bait casting outfit with 10-lb. test monofilament will work. Drop the lure to the bottom, reel up about a foot and jig the lure up sharply one to three feet, and then let it free-fall back. Jig every 10 to 20 seconds. Set the hook hard when you feel a tap or a jerk. Often the fish will hit as the lure is dropping so if the line stays slack reel up and strike....

“Lake trout can be readily caught from shore in May-June and October-November when the water is cool and they’re in shallow to look for food...or to spawn in the fall. Generally look for steep to moderately sloping bottoms with lots of rubble.... Count down before starting your retrieve so the lure is near the bottom. Use silver/red or gold/red lures. You’ll lose lures so use inexpensive ones. Most lakers will be two to four pounds, but you may catch a larger one, particularly in the fall....

“A good contour map of Flathead Lake showing access points is available locally.... For more information on fishing, seasons and limits, and licenses, contact local sporting good stores or Fish, Wildlife and Parks (406) 752-5501) or the Confederated Salish and Kootenai Tribe (406) 675-2700.” –Montana Fish, Wildlife and Parks publication, 1999

Visitors to Flathead Lake who are pulling a large boat behind their rig may want to consider combining a fishing trip with a tour of Wild Horse Island State Park. Access to the island is best from Flathead State Park at Big Arm, located about 35 miles south of Kalispell and 13 miles north of Polson along Highway 93. Wild Horse Island encompasses 2,163 acres of primitive management. Just a few shoreline parcels are still owned by private landowners. No camping is allowed, and boaters are cautioned to beach their boats at one of the five public landing sites. Yes, in addition to more than 100 species of birds and mammals, the island’s tradition of wild horses is still kept alive by the Bureau of Land Management.
For more information contact:

Montana State Parks
490 N Meridian Road
Kalispell, Montana 59901-3854
(406) 752-5501

For information on booking a guided fishing tour on Flathead Lake, contact:
Montana Charter Boat Association
375 Jensen Road
Columbia Falls, Montana 59912
(800) 735-9244

Mileage Markers for Highway 93 North – Missoula to Kalispell

MM 16.7: Jocko River Road

Jocko Road winds up the headwaters of the Jocko River over the divide and down into the Seeley Lake area past Lake Placid. A tribal fishing permit is required on tribal lands.

MM 17: Arlee, Montana.

MM 19: Crossing the Jocko River.

MM 27: Ravalli, Montana.

MM 27.5: Junction with Highway 200 to Thompson Falls

See Highway 200

MM 32.5: St. Ignatius, Montana.

MM 39: McDonald Lake.

MM 40.4: Ninepipe Reservoir

MM 42: Charlo, Montana; National Bison Range.

MM 42: Kicking Horse Reservoir

Dirt road to the right. Excellent bass fishing.

MM 44: Picnic site with shaded tables, toilets.

MM 46: Ronan, Montana.

MM 52.5: Pablo National Wildlife Refuge.

MM 59: Junction Highway 35 to Bigfork, Kalispell.

MM 59.5: Polson, Montana; Polson Recreation Park.

MM 61: Riverside Park, city boat launch.

MM 71.5: Walstad Memorial State Recreation Area
Fishing access, boat launch, picnic area.

MM 73: Big Arm Resort and Marina.

MM 74.4: Big Arm Campground and Picnic Area.

MM 77: Elmo Store, gas.

MM 77.3: Junction with Highway 28 to Hot Springs, Montana.

MM 82.8: Lake Mary Ronan State Park

Lake Mary Ronan is a large recreational lake encompassing almost 1,500 acres. It provides good fishing for kokanee, rainbow and bass. 27 campsites, 35-foot trailer spaces, water, fee area.

MM 85: Northern boundary for the Flathead Indian Reservation.

MM 92.8: Westshore State Campground, boat launch

26 campsites, water, toilets, fee area.

MM 97.5: Lakeside, Montana.

MM 102.5: Somers Fishing Access, boat launch and picnic site.

MM 103: Somers, Montana.

MM 104.2: Junction with Highway 82 to Bigfork, Montana.

MM 110: Kalispell, Montana, Information Center

MM 112: Kalispell, Montana.

MM 113: Junction with Highway 2 to Whitefish and Glacier National Park.

MM 125: Whitefish, Montana; Columbia Falls, Montana; and Glacier National Park

The cut-off to Glacier National Park from Whitefish is 24 miles.

Highway 93 – Whitefish to the Canadian Border

Stillwater River

The Stillwater is just that – still. The mid-section often abuts Highway 93, and access points are found at bridge crossings, pullouts and dirt roads. Slow water and willow-lined stream banks provide good populations of brook trout, rainbows and cutthroats. Some sections are floatable.

MM 129: Whitefish Lake State Park

1.1 miles from Highway 93 in the town of Whitefish. Shaded and beautiful, the campground is close to a golf course as well!

MM 132: Tally Lake See MM 139.

MM 135: Beaver Lake: Four miles

Little Beaver Lake, Murray Lake, Rainbow Lake, Woods Lake, Dollar Lake

Beaver Lake is a beautiful lake with just a small turn-around provided by the state. The lake is bordered by private property. The access site has one picnic site. Canoeists will have to slide their canoes down an embankment to the lake. Beaver Lake is a popular lake for rainbows. Coming into the area, you will find a sign showing the location of all of the little lakes. The roads are bumpy and narrow, and some of them, like the road to Little Beaver Lake, definitely need the high clearance of a truck. Little Beaver Lake has one public access spot to launch a boat, but you will probably need a 4X4 vehicle, especially in the early summer.

I personally would pass up Little Beaver Lake, as the last two-tenths of a mile is on a rutted, boggy road, and when I pulled up to the lake there were already two families camped in a one-family site. I walked down to Dollar Lake and met a teenage boy and his friend who said the lake has always fished well for them, but some of the lakes have been over-populated with Flathead minnows and as such are scheduled for rehabilitation. I would stick with Beaver Lake if you have a car-topper boat, a canoe or a belly boat.

MM 139: Tally Lake Campground, Sheppard Creek, Sylvia Lake Campground

Take the Star Meadow road about 10 miles to the turn-off to Tally Lake. Tally Lake is a large 1,300-acre lake, and it is the deepest lake in Montana at 492 feet. Tally Lake is a recreation lake and popular with water skiers. The campground is on the north shore and has 39 campsites, water, toilets, and boat launch as well as an RV dump station and a swimming area. Fee area.

If you continue to Star Meadows, consult the Flathead National Forest Visitor’s Map for mileage.

Sheppard Lake and Sylvia Lake

On the way to Sylvia Lake, you will pass Sheppard Creek, a brushy little creek holding typical creek-size trout. Sylvia Lake is a 20-acre lake, and it is stocked with grayling.

MM 144.2: Good Creek, Martin Lake, access to the Stillwater River

The road to Good Creek is an easy drive to a good creek. At four-tenths of a mile, you will cross a bridge over the Stillwater River, which provides fishing access. At 3.2 miles there is a turn-off road to Martin Lake, which is a fair fishing lake for smaller rainbows. The pavement ends at 6.1 miles, and there is a turn-off to Star Meadows at 15 miles and Sylvia Lake at 23 miles.

At 8.6 miles Good Creek is not visible, but the distance to the creek is less than a mile. At mile 9.3 you will have your first sighting of the creek. Further up the road the creek meanders through thick willow and tag alder. The creek holds lots of small brook trout and cutthroats.

MM 145.6: Upper Whitefish Lake and Red Meadow Lake

Both lakes can be driven to on a fairly good dirt road. The first lake, Upper Whitefish Lake, is 13.5 miles.

Upper Whitefish Lake is in the Stillwater State Forest and offers a campground and fishing for small cutthroats. Red Meadow Lake is about six miles further and offers camping on a picturesque 19-acre lake, which provides fair fishing for cutthroats and grayling.

MM 151.5: Upper Stillwater Lake and Lagoni Lake

Upper Stillwater Lake is unseen from the highway, but it is only 1.3 miles away. This 630-acre lake offers a campground and fair fishing for brook trout, pike, perch and the occasional cutthroat. Above Upper Stillwater Lake is Lagoni Lake, a small 20-acre lake offering the same type of fishing.

MM 158.8: Bull Lake and Stryker Lake (Fish Lake)

Both lakes lie side-by-side just a few miles from the community of Stryker and offer good fishing for cutthroat and brook trout. These are native trout, but be sure you have a Montana State Land Permit before you fish!

MM 159.8: Picnic spot on South Dickey Lake Day use only.

MM 161: Dickey Lake

Dickey Lake is a summer recreation lake with a potpourri of species offerings, none of which get very big.

MM 163.3: Dickey Lake Campground

25 campsites, 50-foot trailer spaces, toilets, water, boat launch, fee area.

MM 165.1: Murphy Lake Ranger Station

MM 165.8: Murphy Lake

Murphy Lake is a popular 163-acre, warm-water fishery for largemouth bass, perch and pike. Murphy Lake also offers camping.

MM 170.2: Grave Creek and Campground, Blue Sky Creek, Weasel Lake, Therriault Lakes (Little and Big) and the Ten Lakes Scenic Area

For fishermen and campers in the Eureka area, this is your access! Grave Creek has the largest volume of water of any creek in the area. Just a few miles from the highway, Grave Creek Campground offers a number of campsites right on the creek, but the campground is not practical for larger RVs or trailers. In fact, I found only three sites suitable for smaller trailers. The short access road into the campground makes a tight turn, and the road is bumpy. Grave Creek, a tributary of the Tobacco River, is a good fishing creek for 10- to 12-inch rainbows and cutthroats. The bottom section is private, and there is a small area of private land near the campground, but above the campground is National Forest land with a number of miles of creek to fish.

Above Grave Creek is Blue Sky Creek, a tributary of Grave Creek. The creek is small and the small fish are plentiful, but the creek is closed to protect spawning runs of cutthroats and bulls as of July 31. Before you reach Therriault Lakes, the road goes by Weasel Lake. Weasel Lake is a pretty little lake with small fish.

Therriault Lakes are about 28 miles from the highway. Both lakes offer camping and good fishing for 10- to 12-inch cutthroats. The big lake is 55 acres, and the smaller lake 26 acres. Little Therriault Lake is the trailhead for the Ten Lakes Scenic Area.

When I spoke to Bill Myra, owner of Green Mountain Sports Center in Eureka, Bill became passionate in describing the Ten Lakes Area. Having spoken about my home waters with the same enthusiasm, I know I will have to spend a couple of days exploring the region on my next trip. Bill said to plan on a full day hike to these high-elevation lakes, where you can expect great beauty and feisty 10- to 12-inch native trout. Some of the lakes are barren, so you might want to check in with Bill to plan your hike.

MM 174: Glen Lake Glen Lake is surrounded by residences, and the fishing is fair to poor.

MM 178: Eureka, Montana.

MM 180: Junction with Highway 37 to Libby via Lake Koocanusa.

Highway 2 – The Columbia Falls Area

The Hungry Horse Reservoir – South Fork of the Flathead River

Top off your gas tank if you are heading up the South Fork. Follow Highway 2 to the town of Hungry Horse at mileage marker 143.4. Follow the signs to Hungry Horse Dam. Cross the dam and follow the West Side South Fork Road. The mileage markers start at the dam. Spotted Bear Campground, a few miles above the inlet to Hungry Horse Lake, is 55 miles from the dam, and most of it is dirt road. If you are pulling a trailer, plan on cruising at 35 mph. Draining the Bob Marshall Wilderness, the South Fork is the crown jewel of northwestern Montana. From the Spotted Bear Campground, access is by trail or plane into the designated Wild River section. A good portion of this wilderness encompasses the Jewell Basin Hiking Area. To reach the trailheads to the Jewell Basin, look for Wounded Buck Road, West Fork Clayton Creek Road, Clayton Creek Road, Graves Creek Road or Wheeler Creek Road.

Unlike the other forks of the Flathead River, the South Fork fishery is not a migratory fishery owing to the completion of Hungry Horse Dam in 1952. Expect to catch cutthroats averaging 8 to 10 inches. Bull trout, although plentiful, have been protected since 1993. One of the guides that I spoke to said that some days the river offers many 14- to 16-inch trout, but again, access is limited. The primary floating section that can be reached by road is from Cedar Flats River Access to a launch access just below Spotted Bear Campground. The guides in this country work very hard for their wages. Having guided in western Montana all those years, the toughest launch I can think of consisted of dragging my raft maybe 30 yards to the water. When I got out of my truck at Cedar Flats, I kept thinking, there must be a mistake! I walked a narrow trail about 50 yards until the trail plunged down a cliff. Standing high up on the ridge, I couldn’t even hear the water below. Later I talked to a local guide who told me he has to completely break his raft down, and depending on the willingness of his clients, he could count on a minimum of four trips up and down the steep trail.

From Cedar Flats to the Spotted Bear Access point is eight miles and rated Class II water. Above Cedar Flats is a gorge rated Class V to VI. From Spotted Bear Campground Boat Launch to the next access, Twin Creeks, is 6.5 miles and rated Class III, although I swear there are some Class IV spots, which is probably just a perspective view sitting in my 10-foot, one-man drift boat.

Numerous non-fee primitive campsites may be found during the last few miles along Hungry Horse Lake. In addition to the Spotted Bear Campground, Crossover Campground can be easily found on the east side of the lake a couple of miles below Twin Creeks. When you are headed to the Spotted Bear Ranger Station, you will cross the river on the South Fork Bridge and come to a T-intersection. If you turn left, the road heads back down the lake on the eastside to the town of Hungry Horse. Crossover Campground is a few miles down this road and provides a boat launch to the lake.

Spotted Bear River

The Spotted Bear Campground, ranger station and river all come together 55 miles from the dam. Spotted Bear River is indeed a river during spring run-off, but by summer it drops to creek size. The river is excellent for 10-to 14-inch cutthroats, but once again access is difficult in all but a few places. From the confluence with the South Fork to Beaver Creek Campground is 9.4 miles, with only the lower stretch accessible for parking your vehicle and walking down to the river. Two miles above the Beaver Creek Campground (non-fee) the road is blocked. The access roads in the upper half are not really access roads! The first three access roads in the lower half of the road will get you right to the river or very close; in between you have to park and hike down the mountain. The hike back up the mountain would be tough for me, but the biggest challenge for me would be on deciding the question, “Do I walk up the road looking for my rig or walk down?”

When I took the first access road that led to a primitive camping site on the river, I ran into what I consider a real “Old Timer”. I had just stopped to fish a section of the river and caught three fat cutthroats from 10 to 12 inches. I worked one riffle and one hole, but in truth I had to fish these two spots hard and smart to bring them up from the bottom. I was a bit disappointed, but it was almost 90 degrees, so even the usual greedy little ones were sulking from the heat. As I pulled out, I drove past a primitive campsite and spotted an older man sitting in a lawn chair reading a novel.

I leaned out of my truck window and asked him about the typical size for this section. Pat Hardin smiled. Wearing a white brimmed hat and red suspenders, Pat looked like the friendly grandfather type. His kind eyes and easy smile marked him as a soft touch for grandkids.

“Depends when you’re here,” he said.

“Well, I just caught three over there and the largest was 12 inches. What kind of size do you generally catch?”

“Depends on when I was here. The first time was 1928. That was 70 years ago.”

Without even hesitating I asked, “Could I get out of this truck and talk to you?”

“Grab a chair and join me in this patch of shade,” he said.

What a story he had to tell. The next day, wishing I had had the instincts of a newspaper reporter, I regretted not asking all of the questions I would have liked to ask. With some experience as a reporter, I might have probed his story for all the rich details. Pat’s parents were ranchers in the Columbia Falls area. Both were avid outdoors people, and both his mom and dad hunted elk in the fall. Pat said they’d hitch up a wagon with a team of horses and head up Hungry Horse Creek, camping and hunting until they both shot their elk.

Pat recalled his first trip up the South Fork to the Spotted Bear Ranger Station in 1928. The rough road paralleled the river, and the going was rough for a Model T Ford. It took them two days to travel the 60 miles from Hungry Horse to the Spotted Bear Ranger Station. They’d stop and fish when they needed to stretch their legs. Pat remembered the excitement of arriving at the ranger station, which at that time was fairly new. He was seven years old on his first visit to the South Fork.

As a little kid he most enjoyed fishing the little feeder creeks, which produced some very nice-sized cutthroats. Fourth of July on the South Fork was tradition for a number of local ranching families. Years later, after the dam was built, Pat noticed a decline in the numbers of fish just above the reservoir to Spotted Bear, although above Spotted Bear the river maintained its richness. As the popularity of floating increased on the South Fork, noticeable declines in numbers and size alarmed Pat and other folks who had fished the South Fork for years. Pat joined a committee and helped to establish the Wilderness Limit, which limits a fisherman to three fish, all less than 12 inches. Pat now feels the South Fork is rebounding.

Just as I was getting up to leave, Pat confided that a good fisherman could still catch them up to 18 inches, if he knew what he was doing. “My old holes on the South Fork and Spotted Bear are just about as good as they ever were.” Pat’s final comment for me to include in this book was to encourage campers to have a fish fry without any guilt. “Whitefish,” he asserted, “are as good eating as a trout, maybe better.” The cold waters of the South Fork produce some of the best-eating whitefish in Montana. With incredibly generous limits, Pat suggests filleting them or just skinning them. The flaky white meat just falls off the bones.

Mileage Distance for the Westside Road

MM 0: Hungry Horse Dam.

Doris Boat Landing

MM 5: Lost Johnny Campground

Five campsites, water, toilets, limited space for large trailers or RVs. Fee area.

MM 5.6: Lost Johnny Point Campground

21 campsites, water, trailer space for 26-foot camper trailers, concrete launch site to 45-foot drawdown. Fee area.

MM 8.3: Lid Creek Campground

23 campsites, toilets, concrete boat ramp serving full pool to 31-foot drawdown. Fee area.

MM 19: Lakeview Campground

Five campsites, no water.

MM 28.9: Graves Bay Campground

10 campsites, no water.

Graves Creek

Graves Creek may be accessed along the road to Handkerchief Lake and above the lake and then by trail into the Jewell Basin. The creek fishes well for 8- to 10-inch cutthroats.

MM 28.9: Handkerchief Lake Campground

32 acres. Handkerchief Lake can be reached within a couple hundred yards of the campground. Fishing is good for cutthroats and grayling. This is also one of the access trailheads for the Jewell Basin. (See Highway 83, page 74.)

MM 55: Spotted Bear Campground

13 campsites, toilets, water, RV dump facility. Just short of the campground is an access road for launching rafts, although during mid-summer plan on carrying your boat about 40 yards over rocks.

Beaver Creek Campground

9.4 miles above the ranger station on Spotted Bear Road. Three sites, outhouses, loading ramp, feed bunks for horses.

Mileage Distance for the Eastside Road

MM 0: Martin City.

MM 5: Emery Bay Campground

26 campsites, toilets, water, concrete boat ramp serving full pool to 35 foot. Fee area.

MM 22.2: Murray Bay Campground

18 campsites, water, toilets, boat ramp to drawdown level 20 feet.

MM 37.4: Devil’s Corkscrew Campground

MM 42.2: Peters Creek Campground

Six campsites, toilets, no water.

MM 46.8: Cross Over Campground

Highway 200 – Interstate 90 at Bonner to Lincoln

The Blackfoot River

During the early ‘80s I got a call from one of the longest-tenured guides in western Montana. He asked me if I had guided much on the Blackfoot River. I was honest in telling him that I had never floated the Big Blackfoot. “It doesn’t matter,” he countered. “I need three boats for a scenic float trip. Only one member of the group will fish, and he will be in my boat. You get the women and kids.” The next morning I met my party, backed up my trailer close to the ramp and waited my turn to launch my raft down a plank chute. Looking down the 30-foot ramp to the beach and the boulder-strewn river, I took a deep breath.

The outfitter had confidence in me as a rower and guide because we had worked together on the Bitterroot River and Rock Creek, and he knew of my guiding experience in Wyoming. Sauntering up to me as I gazed down the river, he slapped me on the back and said, “Don’t screw up. The river is more dangerous now than it was a few weeks ago. Now you have to do a whole lot of dodging and fancy oar work. You’re going to earn your pay today.”

We had talked about the rock garden on the Green River in Wyoming, which we had both floated through, but I was not prepared for the Big Blackfoot’s Rock Garden. Inexperienced rafters should shun the stretch from Roundup to River Bend Campground and from Russell Gates Campground down to Roundup. After the spring runoff is over, the Rock Garden will challenge any oarsman, but particularly the oarsman who must both navigate the river safely as well as align the boat for those passengers who want to cast. The rocks come at you so fast that you can hardly decide which way to turn, and once you make the decision of which way to turn, you immediately have to start another maneuver. As each season passed I prided myself on never touching a rock, but on every one of those days in my 50s, I was bone-shoulder weary at the end of the day.

The Blackfoot River has steadily improved as a fishery during the last decade thanks to the concerted efforts of environmentalists, ranchers and local members of Trout Unlimited. Popularized by Norman McLean’s novel, A River Runs Through It, the Blackfoot’s real legacy is that it is host to two of Montana’s native salmonids, the westslope cutthroat and the bull trout. Although restrictions exist for purposely fishing for bulls, the river is rich in trophy-size browns and hefty rainbows and cutthroats in the 14- to 17-inch range. Although the river is approximately 130 miles long, the best fishing stretches start at Ovando down to the confluence with the Clark Fork River at Bonner. After spending years on this river, it is only fair to add a disclaimer. Blackfoot River trout sometimes skip a meal!

Spanning 26 miles, the Blackfoot River Recreation Corridor provides both picnicking and camping at 13 locations. Both improved and unimproved camping spots exist all up and down the Blackfoot River. For the camper who wants to fish with younger children, I would recommend the unimproved campground at River Junction on the North Fork of the Blackfoot. Regardless of which one you select, the beauty of the Blackfoot River overwhelms the first-time visitor. Carving its way through the canyon, the river floats by 100-foot cliffs. Ocher in color, the tinted shades and moss-lined shadows make the Blackfoot one of the most scenic rivers in Montana, as well as offering good fishing.

The Blackfoot River – Mileage Markers

MM 0: Exxon Travel Plaza (Milltown) – Exit from Interstate 90 onto Highway 200.

MM 1: Access dirt pull-out.

MM 2: Marco Flats

Marco Flats is easy to miss. The access road takes a sharp turn and drops to the river.

MM 6: Angelvine Park

MM 8:

A narrow gravel pullout with no turn-around area for trailers or large rigs. Short trail to river. MM 8+ pull-over with a dropoff to the river.

MM 9: Gold Creek

Follow Gold Creek Road seven miles up the mountain to the first unimproved campsite. I do not recommend this road or the campsite for trailers, as the actual camping spots are off the main road, and they are rough and rutted. Surrounded by grassy meadows, the creek is ideal for families who want to rough it, but do check for tics in the late spring and early summer. Keep in mind that this is a “pack it in – pack it out!” area. The area is owned by Plum Creek, and it is sad to see how slovenly some campers have been. If you wish to access the creek lower down, make a right turn just short of the two-mile marker. Follow the road 2.8 miles until you reach a small bridge. Park by the bridge, as the road that follows the creek is blocked a mile up the canyon, and there is no turning around. The canyon is excellent fishing for small cutthroats.

MM 10: Blackfoot Recreation Corridor

Thanks to the cooperative efforts of land owners and the Department of Fish, Wildlife and Parks, a 26-mile corridor has been made available to the public. Johnsrud Park offers camping, picnicking, swimming and an excellent take-out for floaters who launch at Roundup or at the Nine-Mile Prairie Road campground.
Floaters warning: The section of the river from Johnsrud Park to Roundup is interspersed with dangerous rapids. Wade fishers may follow the Blackfoot River on an 18.2-mile dirt road that will swing around and rejoin Highway 200 at Roundup, which is the next highway crossing of the Blackfoot River above Johnsrud Park. The road is narrow at times and very bumpy, and as such it is not safe to pull a camping trailer. Throughout the course of this road, there are numerous day-use access points. The two campgrounds, Ninemile Prairie and River Bend, are best reached just short of mileage marker 27 as you cross the bridge at Roundup. Launching a raft or drift boat at Roundup requires use of a 30-foot ramp down to the water’s edge.

MM 22: Garnet Ghost Town

The last remnants of this bustling ghost town have been preserved in its original state of natural decay. From the highway, take the Garnet Road 11 miles. For more information call (406) 329-3914.

MM 26.5: Roundup

Just as you cross the bridge, you will note a 30-foot ramp for launching rafts on this popular stretch of the Blackfoot. Most rafters take out at River Bend campground or Whitaker Bridge, which is about 9.5 miles.

MM 31:Clearwater River

The Clearwater River access is a park-like setting and offers good access for anglers. Because of the river’s clear water, fishing is excellent in the spring. From this crossing the Clearwater offers a short float trip or canoe trip to the Blackfoot. Floaters will drift under safety fence partitions. This is a popular run for summer tubers.

Clearwater Junction:

Highway 200 intersects with Highway 83 to Seeley Lake. See Northwest Montana.

MM 35: Russell Gates Campground

The campground is off the highway on the river’s edge and is a popular floating take-out.

MM 37.9: Upsata Lake & Cottonwood Creek

Exit on Woodsworth Road. Turn left 1.4 miles from the highway at the Blackfoot Clearwater Game Range. Drive one mile to the bridge on Cottonwood Creek by the fish and game house and barn. Fish upstream or down, but be prepared to navigate through heavy brush. The creek hosts small cuts and surprisingly hefty browns that hide in those tough-to-fish willow overhangs.

Continuing on Highway 200 a couple of miles up from the Cottonwood Creek access, Woodworth Road leads to Upsata Lake. Upsata is a small, shallow lake bordered mostly by private property in pothole country. Periodically stocked, the lake produces fair fishing for smaller rainbows. If you have a canoe strapped on top of your rig, this would be a good choice for some evening casting and paddling. Woodsworth Road turns to the left towards Kozy Corner and then continues to Highway 83 near Salmon Lake.

MM 39: River Junction Campground and Scotty Brown Bridge

Follow the access road a short distance to the Scotty Brown Bridge. The landowner forbids any launching of watercraft from his property; however, he has provided four parking spaces for wade fishers. Be sure to respect the rights of property owners and stay below the high water mark. River Junction Campground is one of the most beautiful unimproved campgrounds in the area and provides an opportunity to fish both the main stem of the Blackfoot River and the North Fork. The road to the campground is approximately nine miles, and I would not recommend it for trailers.

MM 40: Monture Creek Campground

Monture Creek Campground is a small campground at the bottom of a ravine just off Highway 200. The campground is mowed, and the campsites sit on the water’s edge surrounded by trees and wild roses. Monture Creek is usually fast and clear in the early summer and provides fair fishing down to the mouth of the Blackfoot River for spawning stragglers. By mid-summer the creek warms up and the trout look for small pools to hide in. Look for the access road further down the highway for the 12-mile drive to the headwaters. Although the creek fishes well for small fry, be prepared to scramble and climb through brush and downed timber in its upper reaches.

Ovando

A short distance up the highway from Monture Creek Campground, the small town of Ovando rests on the hillside overlooking the highway. A cluster of homes, Ovando offers a small store, an inn, a trading post, a brand museum and a post office. (On a knoll just off the highway above Ovando, stop in at Trixie’s Bar and Grill for a great hamburger.) From Ovando follow the road 3.5 miles to the Harry Morgan Campground, which is a popular launching place for floaters. The campground offers only a few sites, but when the river clears you will be hard-pressed to find a parking spot amongst the outfitter’s rigs. Harry Morgan access is a great wading access for fishing the North Fork of the Blackfoot. Traveling another 5.5 miles up the road will take you to Brown’s Lake, which is a good fishing lake, but don’t expect much shade in summer. Popular with boat fishermen and belly-boaters, Brown’s Lake is stocked with some whopper brood stock. Stocked trout grow fast and fat in this lake. Another 1.5 miles down the road will take you to the last floating access point, Cedar Meadows.

MM 51.1: North Fork of the Blackfoot Trailhead and Cooper’s Lake

Exit onto Kleinschmidt Road and follow the signs 11 miles to the trailhead. The North Fork of the Blackfoot is a popular trailhead for backcountry horsemen and fly fishers. For years I never found the time to actually hike back into the wilderness and fish the North Fork. On July 5, 1998, I finally hiked the trail. Following the wettest June on record, I looked down the canyon at the turquoise, silted river and inwardly prejudged the fishing I would have. Much to my surprise, in a 200-yard section in a steep canyon, I picked up six cutthroats, one of which was a fat 16-incher. Elderly fishers may want to pass up the North Fork, as it is a tough hike down the narrow canyon to the water. During high water, you have to scramble up the canyon wall to a bench every 100 yards when it becomes impassable. At age 53 I was huffing and puffing, and I was damn glad that I could still huff and puff for fat westslope cutthroats. The mountainsides look like the back of a porcupine. Gray, burnt-out lodgepole trees blanket the entire area from the 1988 Canyon Creek Fire that destroyed 247,600 acres before it was contained.

Cooper’s Lake is a short distance from the trailhead. Follow Whitetail Ranch Road to the lake. The lake is a fairly large lake surrounded by cottages. Public access is limited to a few tent sites and a boat launch. Fishing is only fair.

Highway 200 from Ovando to Lincoln

Slow winding water and lots of mud, brush and sediment characterize this section of the river. Although it can produce some hefty browns, it generally does not produce good habitat for rainbows and cutthroats.

Popular Float Trips on the Blackfoot River

Float Trip 1: Harry Morgan to Russell Gates

Harry Morgan Campground is a couple of miles outside of the little town of Ovando just off of Highway 200. From here floaters generally float down to the Russell Gates Campground (County Line), which is easily seen from the highway. One may float further down to the confluence with the Clearwater River. Floaters will have to carry their rafts about 20 yards up a gradual bank to the parking area. The section from Russell Gates to the Clearwater Bridge has numerous rapids. The canyon drops quickly in this section, and casters have to work the pockets and rocks diligently. From the Clearwater Bridge to Roundup, in my opinion, is extremely dangerous and should be avoided by all float fishers.

Float Trip 2: Roundup to River Bend Campground or Whitaker’s Bridge

Only expert rowers should float this section as it is extremely dangerous with all the boulder-strewn rapids. A short float would be to River Bend Campground, and a full day’s float would be Whitaker’s Bridge.

Float Trip 3: River Bend Campground or Whitaker’s Bridge to Johnsrud Park

It only takes one nasty drop-off and a sluice of water with huge rocks to make for an unpleasant day. Standing on the water’s edge, Thibo-deau Rapid doesn’t look all that impressive, especially during high water when half of the boulders are submerged and out of sight in the murky water. When the water drops, however, make no mistake. I always have my passengers exit from my boat just upstream on the right side. They can take a well-worn path just below the bottleneck.

Throughout my years of guiding in my raft, I enjoyed this small challenge. During my last year of guiding, I had to maneuver through Thibodeau in a low-profile pram that I had designed and built. Without the cushion of air and the forgiveness of a raft, I was scared. When my last client stepped out of the pram, he turned to me and said, “I’d really like to show off in front of my wife and run it with you.”

I replied, “No, I am being very safe and prudent by allowing no passengers.”

What I didn’t say was that I had a knot in my stomach, and I wasn’t sure how my pram would handle in the fast-water chute. As it turned out, the boat handled well, but I had to do some artful dodging in that short drop-off. Turning around, I marveled at how simple it looked, but I know tales and true stories of river carnage.

Highway 83 – Seeley-Swan Valleys

Some fishers travel in packs and grudgingly compromise on their fishing itinerary; others travel with loved ones and, to the chagrin of family members, plan their family vacations not by destination resorts but by river tributaries. For the fly fisher who cajoles and pleads and promises the moon to his family in order to just wet a line on another river, the Seeley-Swan promises something for everyone in the family. Nestled between the Mission Mountains Wilderness and the Bob Marshall Wilderness, the Seeley Lake recreation area and the Swan River basin offer summer recreation at its best.

Golfing, swimming, canoeing, jet skiing, water skiing, trail riding and wilderness excursions provide just some of the many activities for the entire family. Oh, but here is the dilemma for dad and his fishing converts – just what type of fish to fish? The small creeks contain cutthroats and brookies, as do the mountain lakes. The Clearwater River holds nice browns, and the Swan River is home to both cutthroats and bull trout. The Seeley Lake chain offers kokanee salmon, rainbows, cutthroats, yellow perch and the notorious pike.

From Summit Lake down to the town of Seeley, and then down to Clearwater Junction, the watershed is a tributary of the Blackfoot River, which in turn is a tributary of the Clark Fork. At Summit Lake, Highway 83 crests on a small divide, which begins the watershed for the Swan River that runs north to Flathead Lake. Throughout this recreational wonderland are numerous forest service campgrounds, Montana state park campgrounds and many unimproved camping sites on both Plum Creek logging land and in the Lolo and Flathead National Forests. Backpackers will find that the Bob Marshall Wilderness offers over a million acres to explore.

The Bob is 60 miles in length and joins the Scapegoat Wilderness to the south and the Great Bear Wilderness to the north, which reaches all the way up into Glacier National Park. On the eastern side of the valley, the Mission Wilderness encompasses over 70,000 acres of jagged peaks, small glaciers and many mountain lakes and streams. All of this country is easily accessed from Highway 83, and every mile marker beckons the fishermen to a new piece of water.

Joe Bender of High Basin Sports in Seeley recommends ¼-ounce Rooster Tail lures in the rainbow, chartreuse and brown trout colors as well as 1/8- and ¼ -ounce Panther Martin lures in all gold or silver. He also recommends the yellow and red pattern and the black and red pattern. Joe said, “This country is where the fly fishers and the night crawler fishermen co-exist in harmony. There is just so much variety to choose from. In addition to the lures and spinners, one popular method of fishing from a canoe is to simply troll with a bobber and a piece of night crawler on a six-foot leader.

For the fly fisher, Joe generally recommends nymphs, unless they are rising to a hatch. He uses a sinking tip with a Prince or a bead-head pattern or an olive or black Wooly Bugger or leech pattern. When fishing for kokanee, Joe recommends a leaded line with cowbells, plus a three-foot leader and a Wedding Ring with a piece of white corn or a night crawler. Expect to catch kokanee from 8 to 13-inches.

Hyperbole and verisimilitude quite often tend to enter into discussions with fishing outfitters and shop owners. Joe is a refreshing anomaly. The evening before I met him I had hiked down to Clearwater Lake. Walking up the trail were three float-tube fishermen. They had fished all day and were quite pleased with the results, whenever the wind had died down. One of the anglers good-naturally boosted of the catch of the day, a 20-inch cutthroat. I told Joe I was a little skeptical. After 15 years as a guide, I am accustomed to some gross misjudgments for length and poundage of trout. Year after year I have had clients innocently proclaim that an 11-inch trout was a 14-incher. And when it comes to poundage, I have always marveled at full pound increments. When I do hear someone split the difference and call the catch a 4½ pounder, my imagination soars with the possibilities.

Joe confirmed that the lake contained many such specimens, but the lake was frustrating at times, as it lacked consistency. “When it’s hot, it is one of the best fishing spots in the region, but I have spent a half a day fishing and gone home skunked.” The mere word “skunked” is an anathema rarely spoken but in private moments with one’s most intimate friends or spouse, and I took an instant liking to Joe. Comfortable with Joe’s enthusiasm for the region’s fishing and his open candor, I pressed him for his views on Seeley’s Loch Ness Godzilla, the notorious pike. Brought in by bucket biologists, the pike introduction is the bane of trout fishers. According to Joe the pike explosion has been a boon to the Seeley area, as it draws in pike fishers from all around the country. “Prior to the pike fishing, Seeley Lake was crap fishing for planted rainbows, sun fish, suckers and a few bass. It was the pits. Last year the largest pike that I know of being caught was 25 pounds and measured 46 inches. Now, that’s a fish with an attitude.”

What most fishermen come to realize is that, unlike the pike up in Canada who often feed on themselves due to the scarce food supply, Seeley Pike are not aggressive feeders, as they have large numbers of sun fish and trash fish to feed on. Joe recommends one-ounce red and white Dare Devils, big buzz baits, and large-jointed Rappalas. At the very minimum he suggests using 12-pound line. Other popular lures are Rappala Magnums, weedless rubber mice, Jaw Breakers and spinner bait. Joe forewarns those who fish the lily pads, “Plan on actually landing about 10% of the fish you catch.”

Fly fishers wishing to fish for pike should use wire leaders and deer-hair mice. If you are fishing from a belly-boat or float tube, be sure to bring along a pair of pliers and gloves. When releasing a pike, turn them belly up so that they become motionless. When I asked Joe what his predictions were regarding the explosion of pike in the basin, he replied, “I think they are here to stay. According to a number of knowledgeable sources, the pike will peak in numbers and then decline. When this happens, they will move into pike zones, which we are seeing already. Once this happens the trout population will stabilize as well. The major detriment to the introduction of pike has been the decline of kokanee salmon, but in spite of this loss, I’m glad they are here.”

Joe’s store, High Basin Sports, is located on Highway 83 in Seeley Lake.

Highway 83

MM 0: Clearwater Junction to Bigfork.

MM 1: Harper’s Lake and Blanchard Lake

Harper’s Lake and Blanchard Lake are right next to each other. Both lakes are ¼ of a mile off the highway and provide access to the Clearwater River and a nice campground, especially for a family who has brought along a canoe. The campground is suitable for trailers and offers shade and an ideal spot for family recreation. Harper’s Lake prohibits boats with motors. The lake is planted with trout each year, as well as some retired brood stock. A small 18-acre pothole lake, Harper’s Lake is separated from Blanchard Lake by the access road. Blanchard Lake is a misnomer, as it is actually a 10-acre flooded oxbow of the Clearwater River. Blanchard Lake offers a potpourri of small trout, perch, bass, whitefish and rough fish.

MM 6.5: Salmon Lake State Park

Fee area. Salmon Lake State Park campground has been updated and provides new lavatories with coin-operated showers. The campground has a boat launch and a picnic area as well as an amphitheater where they bring in guest speakers to talk about the wildlife as well as educational seminars sponsored by Montana Fish, Wildlife and Parks. Native Americans also give presentations on their cultural heritage and history. Salmon Lake is a popular lake for all of the trout species and kokanee salmon.
The Clearwater River above Salmon Lake is a popular fishing area for browns. This short section to the Placid Lake turn-off is a challenge, however, as it is braided swampland crowded with willow and tag alder.

MM 10.1: Placid Lake State Park, Owl Creek, Jocko Lakes

Right after you exit the highway, you will cross the Clearwater River, which has a campsite and a fishing trail both upstream and downstream. About a half-mile further are some nice unimproved Plum Creek campsites on Owl Creek, the outlet creek for Placid Lake. Placid Lake State Park is three miles from the highway and charges a fee. The park has recently been upgraded and improved with coin-operated showers and handicapped-accessible rest rooms with hot and cold water. Placid Lake also has a boat launch. Popular with water skiers, the lake doesn’t offer much for quality fishing, although it is loaded with small kokanee.

Owl Creek parallels the road and offers small cutthroats and brookies. Bring plenty of mosquito repellant if you plan on fishing the Clearwater River area where it is joined by Owl Creek.

Jocko Lakes

Ignore the signs to Jocko Lakes. The road takes off from the campground entrance. The lakes are high up in the Mission Mountains on the Flathead Indian Reservation. They are closed to fishing. The outlet, the Jocko River, is an excellent high-country stream. However, you will need a tribal permit to fish so you would need to continue driving to Arlee, Montana. From Highway 83 to the fishing area on the Jocko River is approximately 25 miles.

MM 14: Seeley Lake camping

River Point Campground

Just after mile-marker 14, look for Boy Scout Road on the left. The road swings around the east side of Seeley Lake and rejoins Highway 83 above the town. River Point Campground is 2.1 miles from the highway and offers 26 campsites, swimming and picnicking. It is a USFS fee campground and provides lots of shade.

Seeley Lake Campground

A fee campground right on the lake, Seeley Lake Campground, Lolo National Forest, is 3.3 miles. Shaded by larch, it also offers a nice concrete boat launch and a beach with a roped-in swimming area. Public pay phones are available, but the campground does not offer showers. 29 campsites. Flush toilets. Cold drinking water. Boat launch.
Seeley Lake provides lots of fishing opportunities for perch, stocked rainbows, cutthroats and pike, not to mention some hefty 5- to 10-pound brood stock from the Arlee hatchery. Yellow perch are best caught with a rubber jig with a piece of night crawler. The best pike fishing is found at the outlet of the lake.

MM 15-16: Seeley Lake, Montana.

Seeley Trailhead Campground, Morrell Creek, Morrell Falls, Morrell Lake and Cottonwood Lakes (Road #477)

Just as you reach the outskirts of the town of Seeley, look for Morrell Creek Road which heads east. Morrell Creek is first crossed two miles from the highway. The creek offers small cutthroats, brookies and the occasional brown spawner in the fall.

Cottonwood Lakes, Seeley Trailhead Campground

The campground is one mile from the highway and not to be confused with the lakeside campground. Cottonwood Lakes are 8.4 miles from the campground, although there is only one real lake, which is the middle lake. The other two “lakes” are shallow mud ponds. The middle lake is a narrow 15-acre lake, and it is only fished out of a canoe or small boat. The lake is stocked with Arlee rainbows, and it is a popular lake for cutthroats and brookies. The lake offers a number of unimproved campsites. This is “pack it in – pack it out” country. Morrell Creek Road is actually a loop that comes out at Kozy Korner three miles from Highway 83. Take Woodworth Road just past Salmon Lake State Park.

MM 17.9: Seeley Lake Ranger Station.

MM 19.4: Boy Scout Road

This is the loop road which swings around the west side of the lake and re-connects at mileage marker 14.

MM 20: Clearwater Lake Loop Refer to Mileage Marker 28.

MM 22.5: Lake Inez

293 acres with a maximum depth of 70 feet. Fishing is similar to Seeley Lake. Lake Inez has USFS non-fee campgrounds running along the shore of the lake right beneath the highway. Some of the sites are squeezed between the water and the access road with the highway up above it.

MM 24: Lake Inez Campground access.

MM 25: West Fork of the Clearwater River, Marshall Lake

As soon as you turn off the highway, you will cross the Clearwater River. Right alongside the creek and the road are two grassy unimproved campsites. The West Fork of the Clearwater River is a brushy little creek with few fish. The road to Marshall Lake is 6.4 miles and offers a stunning view of the valley. Narrow and bumpy in places, I would recommend pulling only a tent trailer. When I got up to the lake, however, I was surprised to see a 19-foot trailer. When I talked to the camper, he had a harrowing tale about backing up his trailer on a windy cliff-side road when he ran into a gate. Marshall Lake has one campsite and a place to launch a boat, although there are a couple of unimproved campsites on the creek about a hundred yards from the lake. The road forks just above the campsite and follows the side of the mountain up above the lake, where a gate blocks further travel. Vandals had removed the warning sign. The father said that it had taken hours to back the trailer down the narrow, windy road, and his two young sons were terrified.

Marshall Lake froze a number of years ago. All that was left were a few five-inch cuts when I fished it. The creek also froze out and offers poor fishing in the upper reaches. Check to see if the lake has been re-stocked.

MM 26: Lake Alva

Approximately 300 acres with a maximum depth of 90 feet. Lake Alva is the most popular fishing lake among the locals. Offering good catches of kokanee, trout and the occasional bull trout, the lake also offers perch and pike. Similar to Lake Inez, Lake Alva has a non-fee USFS campground that runs along the water’s edge just short of mile marker 25, but it is more suitable to tents and truck campers.

Lake Alva Campground

Lake Alva Campground is a self-serve fee campground with no showers. 41 campsites. Cold drinking water. U.S. Fee Area. During the ice-fishing season, a 27-pound pike was speared in the lake. The campground has an excellent boat launch and a small beach with a roped-off area for swimming.

MM 27: Rainy Lake

70-acre shallow lake. Rainy Lake is popular fishing for 12-inch cutthroats. Rainy Lake has the largest population of bull trout and is free of pike.

MM 28: Clearwater Lake Loop

The dirt road is surprisingly smooth, and the view of the Bob Marshall Wilderness peaks are stunning. Clearwater Lake is seven miles from the highway. You will find a parking spot with a half-mile trail down to the lake (it seemed much shorter than a half-mile). Don’t waste your time trying to fish this lake from the shore. The lake is extremely shallow around its entire length. The lake is rich in leeches and freshwater shrimp with good hatches so the cutthroats are sometimes uncooperative. The lake is best fished from a belly boat or a canoe. The best fishing is in the northwest end of the lake. Joe Bender recommends olive leeches, bead-head nymphs and hoppers in August. The lake offers a number of pack-in camping sites.

MM 31: Summit Lake

Summit Lake is a small, brushy-lined lake that freezes. It is rarely fished. The few rises that you see are smaller cutthroats moving up or down from Bertha Creek. Bertha Creek is so overgrown it is not worth the effort to fish it. Summit Lake is the dividing line for the Clearwater that drains south to the Blackfoot River and the Swan River drainage that flows north to Flathead Lake.

MM 34.3: Lindbergh Lake, Bunyon Lake, Meadow Lake, Crystal Lake

725 acres with a maximum depth of 125 feet. Within a half-mile of exiting Highway 83, the road crosses the Swan River. The campground is 4.5 miles from the highway and offers a few camping sites, a picnic area and a boat launch. The lake is surrounded by summer homes. The campground only offers four sites suitable for camping trailers. Halfway up the road is a road to the right leading to Bunyon Lake, a distance of seven miles. Bunyon Lake is a high-elevation lake with no camping facilities, unless you are willing to pack your gear down to the lake, a distance of 200 yards. This is not a road for trailers!

Bunyon Lake fishes very well for small cutthroats. For every four 6-inch fish that you catch, you’ll land a 10- or 12-incher. This is a beautiful little lake a bit short of 10 acres. It would be the perfect spot to launch a belly-boat and just cruise around catching hungry little cuts. Less than a mile away lies Meadow Lake. Meadow Lake is only slightly bigger. Somewhat swampy, the lake is blocked by a gate so you must walk a short distance to the lake for 8- to 12-inch cuts. Crystal Lake (186 acres) may be reached from a trail at Meadow Lake, the southern end of Lindbergh Lake, or a trailhead may be taken from Beaver Creek Road, which is just above Summit Lake. A relatively large lake, the lake seems to be declining in both the numbers of fish and the size of the fish.

MM 34.3:Glacier Lake

In my sojourn through this country, I didn’t get a chance to hike in and fish Glacier Lake. However, when I hiked down to Bunyon Lake, I ran into a family who had just fished Glacier Lake. It was their first choice from all the lakes that they had fished. Although they never caught anything larger than 12 inches, they watched a lone fisherman pulling in some hefty 14-inch cuts, but by the time he headed out, it was time for them to leave as well. Follow the Glacier Creek Road. Plan on an hour’s hike to reach the lake.

MM 35.6: Holland Lake

416 acres with a maximum depth of 150 at the east end of the lake. Holland Lake offers two large USFS fee campgrounds, a boat launch and a roped swimming area. Campsites line the shore with spectacular views of the waterfall at the east end of the lake. Fishing is generally good for cutthroats, rainbow trout, kokanee and a few bull trout. Be prepared for lots of boating activity and jet skis. The outlet creek is good fishing for small trout.

MM 43: Flathead National Forest Work Center

Swan River

Originating out of Lindbergh Lake, the Swan River rushes 35 miles to Swan Lake. Although not as fertile of a river as other rivers in western Montana, the Swan River, nonetheless, produces good numbers of westslope cutthroat, rainbow, bull trout and mountain whitefish. The great advantage of the Swan is that it is relatively isolated with less fishing pressure. The challenge is two-fold from Mother Nature. The mosquitoes and flies feast on fly fishers who defy the tangled, dense foliage along the shore. The greatest challenge, however, lies waiting for the rafters and canoeists. Good luck!

Rafting the Swan is similar to rafting on Rock Creek. The oarsman must be ever-vigilant, and their fly casters cannot be contemplative or inaccurate in their casting ability. The water is especially swift in the early summer and appears to be one long riffle, punctuated by occasional pools and eddies. The best cover for the trout is under the logjams and downed trees, and it is these obstacles which make the Swan River risky. After a record rainfall for June 1998, I launched my one-man drift boat at Piper Creek and floated down to my campsite at Cedar Creek Campground on the Fatty Creek Road. I had received information on a large logjam, but I didn’t listen carefully. Left or right? I went right, and it was the wrong decision as I came around a swift bend and encountered an incredible 20-yard logjam. If I had been floating in a raft, I would have been faced with an extremely difficult decision, as there was no going back upstream due to the fast current. Luckily I found a narrow opening to follow, and I only had to drag my little boat over two logs.

Normally, I am fairly adept at floating while I am tying on a new fly. Not so for the Swan. Because I wanted to fish Jim Lake that evening, I just fished without stopping. What a rush it was for speed, scenery and fishing. I started out with a size 12 Royal Humpy and went 100 yards without catching a fish. Oh, oh, I thought. But then they started coming up to my fly, one after another. I must have caught over 15 rainbows and cuts, all under 9 inches. Due to the speed of the water, I knew I was missing good pocket water and sheltered downfall. Rowing and casting without stopping is not the way to fish the Swan.

I switched to a girdle bug and didn’t have another fish on for over an hour. I thought to myself, Okay, you’ve caught the river’s dinks, now let’s put on a Muddler and pull in some of those bigger guys. With about a mile to go to my campsite, I tossed out an unweighted Muddler. The deer-hair collar kept the large Muddler floating high and dry. One dink after another rose to hit it even before I had a chance to strip it under the water. When I got off the river, I walked up to Eric Bjorge, who is a river guide and owner of the Two River Gear store in Bigfork.

“Well, all I’ve caught is dinks today,” I said.

“Pretty typical for the first day on the Swan,” he replied. “If you want the big guys, you’ve got to work a nymph.”

“What can I expect from this river?” I asked.

“Twenty-four to 30 inchers,” he retorted.

“Bull,” I said.

“Yeah, bull trout, but I’ve caught a lot of 18- to 20-inch rainbows in this river.”

Swan River trout average between 8 and 12 inches. In talking to Eric further, he suggested that if you are going to fish the Swan, “go big or go home.” The Swan has a long and steady hatch of Isoperla stoneflies so stimulators or large yellow Humpies will work well.

Access is restricted from Lindbergh Lake crossing all the way down to Cold Creek. Many roads cross the river, but for the most part the property is posted and there is no place to park. The following information was excerpted from the pamphlet “Fishing Waters of the Swan Valley”, a joint publication sponsored by the United States Forest Service for the Flathead National Forest and the Montana Department of Fish, Wildlife and Parks.

Upper Section: “From Lindbergh Lake Road to Condon the upper river is relatively shallow and wadable, containing numerous riffles and runs. Water temperatures warm by mid-summer and smaller brook trout and rainbow trout favor the area. Floating is difficult due to low water, logjams and split channels on the lower end. General stream regulations apply (see fishing regs).

Middle Section: “The section from Condon to Piper Creek Road is characterized by smaller flows, a diversity of channel conditions and pools formed behind log jams and fallen trees. Good-sized rainbow trout are common along with bull, cutthroat and brook trout and abundant mountain whitefish. Logjams hamper floating above Cold Creek and skilled rafting is recommended below this point. General stream regulations apply upstream from Piper Creek Bridge (see fishing regs).

Lower Section: “From Piper Creek Road to Porcupine Creek Road this section contains the greatest diversity with respect to depth, cover and water volume. Stream banks are fairly open after spring high water and there is some channel splitting. Experienced canoeists and rafters navigate this section, but caution must be exercised due to fallen trees and log jams. Catch-and-release regulations for rainbow and cutthroat trout apply from Swan Lake up to Piper Creek Bridge.” –USFS

MM 46.7: Cold Creek Road Fishing Access for the Swan River plus access to high-elevation lakes

The Swan River access has good parking on both sides of the bridge. Peck Lake is six miles; the trailhead to Cold Lakes is seven miles; Jim Lake is 10 miles.

Peck Lake

Peck Lake access is six miles from the highway. Watch for the sign, as you will need to make a right turn. Peck Lake can be accessed close to the road. The lake is a shallow, swampy lake with stocked trout.

Upper and Lower Cold Lakes

Nestled close to the Mission Mountains divide, both lakes are reached within 2.5 miles from the trailhead, and each have healthy populations of cutthroats from 12 to 16-inches. At 2.9 miles from the highway, the road to Cold Lakes and Jim Lakes turns to the right. At 5.9 miles the road forks to the left for the Cold Lakes trailhead. From the turn-off to Cold Lakes continue four miles to Jim Lake. The last four miles is a second-gear pull; the road is bumpy and should be attempted only by high-clearance vehicles. The Jim Lakes basin is a photographer’s dream. Even in July there were slivers and patches of snow on the mountain rims over looking Jim Lakes. Be forewarned that the narrow and bumpy entrance to the lake is strictly for trucks. The primitive road jack-knifes down to three compact camping sites on the lake. To make the turn I had to back up a few times, and I was tempted to put my truck in four-wheel drive. The lake offers excellent scenery and good fishing. Just after you cross the bridge over the outlet creek, there is a turn-around and parking area for non-four-wheel-drive vehicles. From that point to the lake is only a half-mile.

MM 50.8: Salmon Prairie Road

Good river access less than a mile from the highway. Most floaters float to Fatty Creek.

MM 52: Lion Creek Road Lion Creek is closed to fishing.

MM 53.6: Piper Creek Road

Access is three-tenths of a mile from the highway, but has limited parking.

MM 54.5: Van Lake Road #9882

58 acres with a maximum depth of 40 feet. Van Lake is a popular local fishing lake, but you will need a pick-up truck and a small boat, as the shoreline is difficult to fish. After two miles, stay left. The lake has primitive camping sites.

MM 58.5: Fatty Creek Road

Access to Metcalf Lake, Shay Lake, Fatty Lake and Cedar Lake, Cedar Creek and Fatty Creek. The bridge is three-tenths of a mile from the highway and offers a boat-launching access. Across the river is Cedar Creek Campground, which provides drinking water and toilets. On the far side of the bridge is a bumpy road which leads to a nice picnic area with tables right on the river, about 100 yards down from the bridge. Cedar Creek is crossed right after the campground, but it offers only very small cutthroats. From the highway six-tenths of a mile, you will note a fork to the left. This road will lead to Shay Lake. Caution: Shay Lake “road” should be driven to only in a 4X4 rig that has already received abuse through the years, as the road is overgrown in parts. If you have a new paint job, plan on scratches! After 1.4 miles, the main road forks to the left.

Metcalf Lake

Metcalf Lake is 2.2 miles from the Cedar Creek Campground. Make the first right turn off of Fatty Creek Road, and then make another right turn to the lake. There are no signs for the second right turn except a “Pack it in – pack it out!” sign. The lake may be almost reached by a car with a three-tenths-of-a-mile hike. Only a truck should attempt the last section of the road. The lake is popular with local youth. They have built a high swinging rope above the lake. The lake is shallow except for the small portion by the swing. The lake is being managed for trophy trout.
Fatty Creek is crossed 3.6 miles from the highway. The Fatty Creek Road to the Cedar Lake trailhead is exactly nine miles from the highway. The road is an ear-popping second-gear climb high up in the Mission Mountains. It can be rutted and very bumpy in places. Check with the forest service prior to driving the road with a low-clearance vehicle.

Cedar Lake

Cedar Lake trailhead has a large turnaround. The lake is about a four-mile hike. Keep in mind that you are in grizzly country, so if you are traveling alone or in a group, pepper spray may be a prudent purchase. Camping at the lake is designated as no-impact camping. Fatty Lake is accessed by a hunter’s trail about 1.5 miles before the trailhead. I could not find it. Although it reportedly fishes well, I would recommend the established trail to Cedar Lake, which has a healthy population of cutthroats.

Return to Highway 83

MM 63.5: Point Pleasant Campground

MM 66.7: Road #10161

Easily missed, this site offers a great access to the river as well as a take-out for rafters. Camping is allowed on a “pack it in – pack it out”basis.

MM 68.2: Porcupine Creek Road

The Swan River is crossed one mile from the highway. Access is good for wade fishers, but you will have to drag your raft or canoe up a 15-foot bank to the road.

MM 71-72: Swan Lake, Montana.

MM 71.9: Swan Lake Campground

USFS. 36 campsites for trailers, RVs and tents. Fee area. Water available, vault-type toilets, swimming beach, boat ramp.

MM 82.5: Junction

Montana State Route 209 heads west five miles to the town of Bigfork and Highway 35, which is the westside route along Flathead Lake, beginning at Polson and ending at Kalispell.

MM 86: Echo Lake

The highway now turns due east. Follow the signs to Echo Lake. The lake is popular for water skiing and summer homes, but it does have fair fishing, nonetheless.

MM 88.6: Jewell Basin Hiking Area

The Jewell Basin Hiking Area is at the north end of the Swan Mountain Range between Kalispell and Hungry Horse Reservoir. It is 17 miles east of Kalispell and 18 miles southeast of Columbia Falls. To reach the Jewell Basin hiking area, follow State Highway 83 to the Echo Lake Road; follow the Echo Lake Road north approximately two miles to a T-intersection. Turn right. This road leads to a junction with the Jewell Basin Road (#5392). Follow the Jewell Basin Road approximately seven miles to the trailhead and parking area. The last five miles are steep and contain drive-through drainage dips. Caution is advised if traveling with low-clearance vehicles. Trailers are not recommended.

The Jewell Basin Hiking Area is a specially-designated backcountry-use area consisting of 15,349 acres of high mountains. It includes 27 alpine lakes, many picturesque mountain streams, mountain meadows, rocky peaks, sub-alpine timber and a variety of flowers. Elevations within the basin range from 4,240 feet on Graves Creek to 7,542 feet on Big Hawk Mountain. Thirty-five miles of trails connect most of the lakes. The average hiker in good physical condition can travel two to three miles per hour.

Fishing is generally excellent in the lakes and creeks, although like all fishing it is subject to the whims and fickleness of Mother Nature. Camping in the Jewell Basin is on the basis of “no impact”. Be cautious, as this is grizzly country. Bears are unpredictable and, in certain circumstances, can be very dangerous. Additional information on how to camp in bear habitat is available at any of the five District Offices or the Forest Supervisor’s Office in Kalispell. For additional information contact:

District Ranger
Swan Lake Ranger District
Big Fork, MT 59911
(406) 837-5081

Forest Supervisor
Flathead National Forest
Box 147
Kalispell, MT 59901
(406) 755-5401

MM 91: Junction with Highway 35

You are two miles to Bigfork or 17 miles to Kalispell.

Saga: Crick Fishing

Years ago, when I worked out of a local fly shop, I wouldn’t hesitate in suggesting a guided instructional trip to one of our local creeks. I fondly recall many days when instruction was immediately reinforced with fish after fish rising to take a swat at my client’s Royal Wulff or bushy Humpy. If you are new to the sport of fly fishing, spend as much time as you can on mountain creeks. You will be delighted with the action as well as your accelerated mastery of requisite skills. Having spent 15 years behind the oars as a fly fishing guide, I would also recommend as many days on the river with a guide as you can afford! A good guide will not only help you catch fish, he will instruct you in the nuances of the sport.

The size of a trout is relative to the conditions of its environment. High-elevation canyon creeks do not produce large trout, but they do provide a respite from the summer heat and an intimacy with the water and flora of a mountain stream. Best of all, they produce an abundance of small, hungry trout. And when you catch a 10-incher, it is akin to landing a 16-incher on the river. If you are new to fly fishing, start out on a creek. Besides offering lots of fish, it will teach you many skills in a short amount of time. A creek-fishing trip will teach you that a short cast is all you need. Get right out in the middle of the creek and fish directly upstream on both sides. Make short casts, and control your line. In most cases you merely have to hold your rod tip up and keep the line out of the water!

Regarding your choice of fly patterns, big is better on a creek. Use size 10 and 12 common attractor patterns. If the water is heavy and you have to stay to one side of the creek, use a Girdle Bug or a Yuk Bug. Fish these bugs just as you would a dry fly. Allow them to sink under the surface and watch for the strike. Learn where the fish hide, as it is much the same on the rivers. With lots of action, you will learn to read the water, anticipate the strike, and set the hook.

I always proclaim that I am an expert when it comes to fishing a creek, even though expertise can be acquired with just a few creek experiences in late July or August. One summer I was taking a father and his son out to teach them “crick fishin’”. Looking up the trail, I spotted a lone fly fisherman walking down the trail. “I’ll bet he had lousy fishing,” I whispered to the young boy. “Let’s find out.” Sure enough the man had caught only a few small cutthroats, and it was obvious he was disappointed.

When he was out of hearing, the father looked at me quizzically, and the young boy asked, “How did you know?”

“Simple,” I replied. ”He had dry pants and dry sneakers!”

Follow these four rules for successful creek fishing: (1) Get wet! (2) Position yourself in the middle of the creek, and keep moving upstream in the water. (3) Better yet, keep your fly along the seams and in slow pockets at a slower speed. (4) Unless you are using a hopper, present your fly gently on the water.

Once you have caught a dozen fish, the stress of your daily life will slip away as you sit on a rock contemplating what fly you will use next. Resting your feet on the gold, pebbly bottom, you will take in a breath of cool mountain air and think, “This is what it is all about.”