Southwestern Montana: Madison River
	Accomodations & Services in this Region

Deemed one of the most abundant trout fisheries in the world, the Yellowstone River has a challenger less than four hours away. Montana’s second crown jewel is still a show case. Having been ravaged by whirling decease during the early part of this decade, Madison loyalists watched the number of rainbows plunge from 3500 a mile down to 500 to 600 per mile. Juvenile populations dropped 90% in a few short years. Clearly the Madison fishing frenzy has waned. No longer do wade fishermen curse the steady stream of drift boats. But newcomers will find no memorial markers with epitaphs lamenting the death of the Madison. The loss has been profound, but the Madison River is still one of the top fisheries in Montana. Browns average 1500 to 1800 per mile with a healthy population of trophies.

Research continues on solutions to mitigate the whirling disease impact on rainbows. One promising solution is looking at early spawning rainbows which would have less exposure to the WD parasite. In temperatures blow 50 degrees the host worm actually produces very few spores. In an article published in the Missoulian August 6, 1998, Dick Vincent, Region 3 Manager, suggests that finding strains of rainbows and cutthroats that are predisposed to spawn early holds promise for the future. "We may be able to actually spawn fish in the wild, imprint the colder temperature on them, then put them back out there in the hope that they would imprint their young to spawn earlier."

What is not missing from the Madison River today is the opportunity to fish a great brown stream that offers pristine settings and some of the most beautiful water in the world. Whether in the park or in the Ennis area, the Madison River deserves respect having only slipped from runner-up to second place.

The Madison River originates fifteen miles inside the Park from the West Yellowstone Entrance. Just above the National Park Meadow, the Gibbon River joins the Firehole to begin the Madison’s journey for over a 130 miles to Three Forks where it joins the Gallatin and the Jefferson to form the Missouri River. Although the park section is fished throughout the summer, the best fishing occurs in June during the salmon fly hatch and the green drake hatch. Migratory trout spawn in this section both during the spring and fall. The fall receives heavy pressure as anglers anticipate the fall brown spawning runs out of Hebgen Lake. Heavy duty streamer patterns work best, but fishermen are also successful using nymphs and egg patterns.

Keep in mind that by mid summer the park section water begins to rise in temperature due to the summer heat combined with the thermal activity in the Firehole region. An additional challenge is that Madison River trout are hammered all year long, and they become vary educated. Just inside the park boundary, fishermen can take a left on a dirt road to Bakers Hole area if they want some semblance of solitude. With the advent of fall and the anticipation of brown spawning runs, the area becomes quite a popular gathering spot. Regardless of the season, be cautious in disturbing wildlife, especially bears.

Leaving the Park, the Madison takes a short run and enters Hebgen Lake. Hebgen Lake runs 16-miles long and the area provides a number of campgrounds. Most of the arms of the lake offer good fly fishing for float tubers. For camping information contact the Hebgen Lake Ranger District, PO Box 520, West Yellowstone, MT 59758 or call (406) 646-7369. All Hebgen Lake Ranger District fee sites are available to reserve on the recreation reservation system by calling 1-800-280-2267. Hebgen Lake offers seven campgrounds. Rainbow Point Campground and Baker’s Hole campground exclude tent camping because of bear activity. Baker’s Hole Campground is right on the Madison River just above where it joins the Madison Arm of Hebgen Lake. Anglers will find a white stake denoting the Park boundary.

At the outlet of Hebgen Lake, Quake Lake was formed during the 1959 earthquake. Below Quake Lake to the Junction with Highway 87, the scared remnants of the quake make floating this section of the river extremely dangerous, and even experts shun this short section. The junction with Highway 87 begins the mileage markers. Ennis, Montana, is 41 miles downstream.

MM 0: Highway 287 junction with Highway 87 to Henry’s Lake, Idaho. The water from Quake Lake to the junction with Highway 87 is both sobering and challenging. The 1959 quake registered 7.8 on the Richter Scale, and an entire mountain slid down on one of the most productive stretches of the Madison for large trout. A campground was buried, and many lives were lost. Almost forty years later, gray pine tree stalks slant from the river, and the boulder strewn heaps of piled high gravel and rock testify to this horrific event. The water looks barren above the junction, but dedicated nymph fishermen take fish in the fast foam and surface film. From the junction to Ennis, a distance of approximately 50 miles, this famous section of the Madison has been described as a 50-mile riffle.

The best time to fish this section of the Madison is early summer and fall. The first awaited hatch is the prolific caddis hatches of late May and June, but the Madison River’s salmonfly hatch is justifiably famous and eagerly awaited. But like the Big Hole and Rock Creek, making flight reservations and motel reservations six months in advance can lead to great disappoints when you are confronted with lingering storms, late run-offs, or heavy or late snow accumulations. Hitting it just right is a crap shoot, but if you have the time and the money, it is more than worth the effort. Traditionally, the hatch starts during the last week of June through mid July followed by the presence of golden stoneflies. With the announcement of, "Gentlemen, start your engines," an interesting rush to the water takes place. Nymph fishermen head upstream above the hatch to chuck 2 inch weighted Bitch Creeks and various other stonefly nymphs into the cold water. Dry fly enthusiasts rush around probing the river and chasing guide rigs. And the leisure set move behind the advancing hatch knowing that trout have orange memories and rise readily to smaller yellow and orange stimulators.

The dog days of August calls for terrestrials, but those enticements are often ignored. One popular and effective technique is to add a bead-head Prince as a dropper. Realistically, during the heat of August, expect to catch smaller fish. By all means pound the water mid day with hoppers, beetles and ants, but do not ignore early morning nymphing techniques and evening hatches of Blue-wing Olives. September and October bring about a change of tactics with heavy streamers.

  Wade Lake and Cliff Lake: Wade Lake and Cliff Lake turn off is just downstream from the junction. Both lakes are fairly large and may also be reached from the West Fork Bridge access at mile marker 9.6. Both lakes have campgrounds, but fishing from shore is somewhat difficult due to the steep shoreline. The lakes support healthy populations of 10 to 14 inch trout. Wade Lake Campground offers 30 camping sites, Hill Top Campground offers 20, and Cliff Point offers 6 sites and a trailer boat launch

  MM 9.6: West Fork Campground: The West Fork Campground offers seven shaded tent camping sites right along the West Fork of the Madison which is a beautiful stream in its own right, offering fair catches of rainbows and browns. The West Fork may be accessed for almost fourteen miles from on a dirt road. The West Fork blows out early during spring run-off and after a heavy storm. Above the West Fork the river clears earlier due to both the nature of the Park and the addition of Hebgen Lake which tends to settle the silt. Next to the West Fork Campground is the West Fork Cabin Camp and RV Campground.

  MM 15.7: Lyon Bridge Recreation Area: Boat launch and picnic area

  MM 22.7: Palisades Campground: One mile off the highway, Palisades Campground offers 7 camping sites along side of the river with a towering bluff on the other side.

  MM 30.8: McAttee Bridge: McAttee bridge has a day use site as well as a boat launch. Three miles down a well maintened road is the Wall Creek Wildlife Management Area and West Madison Campground. If you like sage brush and full exposure to the sun, then this campground provides 22 camping sites and a boat launch.

MM 38: Cameron, Montana: Cameron has a post office and the Blue Moon Store and RV Park.

  MM 40: Varney Bridge (campground): The road to Varney Bridge is over three miles on some rough road. Although the campground has a self-deposit fee requirement, it is somewhat old and run-down. Nonetheless, the five or six campsites are on the river bank with mature cottonwoods providing welcome shade. Most locals take the secondary road out of Ennis on the west side of the river to Varney Bridge.

Floaters can choose a half-day float and spend more time out of the boat fishing by taking out at the Eight Mile Ford boat launch, or they may float down to Ennis Campground. The stretch from Varney Bridge to Ennis Campground, unlike the water upstream, separates into many braided channels and islands. Even with this separation of water, the Madison flows swift against undercut banks and tiny islands. This section has traditionally maintained the largest browns.

  Ennis Campgrond: Just across the bridge from Ennis, Ennis Campground is a shaded campground with mowed grass right on the river. The campground is a Fish, Wildlife and Parks campground with 25 camping sites. Before the bridge crossing, look for the turn off to Valley Garden Campground which is on the secondary road leading to Bear Trap Canyon. From Ennis Campground to Ennis Lake is closed to float fishing.

Ennis, Montana

The Madison River from Ennis to Three Forks:

 Ennis Lake: The lake is shallow, no more than 20 feet in most places. Solar heating of the lake, often reaching close to 80 degrees during the heat of summer, threaten both the trout in the lake and the trout downstream. In spite of this, healthy populations of three to five pound Eagle Lake Rainbows and browns entice boaters and float tubers.

Ennis Lake Outlet to Three Forks: The outlet of Ennis Lake picks up speed as it drops down through the Lee Metcalf Wilderness in Bear Trap Canyon. Bear Trap Canyon is wicked whitewater country and should be avoided unless you are knowledgeable about the vagaries of this rushing canyon water. For floating information contact the Bureau of Land Management, Box 3388, Butte, MT 59702.

Highway 287 splits at the town of Norris and heads to Cardwell and Interstate 90. The Madison River is reached again by taking Highway 84 to Warm Springs and then to the outlet of Beartrap Canyon. A secondary road, Madison Road, follows the river to Three Forks. The lower Madison is broad and much warmer as a result of the shallow water of Lake Ennis. Lower in elevation, the lower Madison’s water temperatures by mid-summer slows down the fishing. Released fish are highly stressed and frequently die. Spring and fall are most assuredly the best time to fish the lower Madison.