Clarkfork River by Jim Cox

When somebody says, "Montana", what's the first thing that comes to mind? No, not the unibomber . . . . Ok, besides the freemen . . . .Pleeeeeeeeeeeze, NOT "The Movie"!!! Actually, I was hoping for something more along the lines of the fact that Montana has a river system and freshwater resource that is the envy of flyfishermen around the country. No other state in the lower 48 comes even close to the number of river miles filled with wild trout. In terms of dry fly fishing opportunities, the rivers of Montana stand alone. It's also true, however, that when asked to name a few of the great flyfishing rivers in the state, the much publicized names such as the Madison, Yellowstone, and the Big Hole are the ones that come to mind almost automatically. If, by chance, you've made such a list for yourself and have omitted the Clark Fork, you've made a BIG mistake.

As the Clark Fork leaves the state on its way to the Columbia, it carries more water than any other river in Montana. From its headwaters near Anaconda to the Thompson Falls area, the Clark Fork can produce days of fishing that are as good as it gets. From mid-March until late November, the comparatively warmer water temperatures of the Clark Fork extend the window of both insect and fish activity. The species of fish range from primarily brown trout near the headwaters, to pike in the lower, slower regions around Noxon reservoir. Far and away, though, the most prevalent species of game fish in the river, (not counting whitefish), are rainbow and rainbow / cutthroat hybrids known as "Cutbows". These Cutbows are extremely good fighters under normal conditions and combine the best aspects of both species with deep cutthroat runs ending in very aggressive rainbow aerials. Hatches that range from size 22 midges to size 4 golden stones speak to the diversity of fishing opportunities afforded by this generally overlooked treasure.

The history of the Clark Fork is not one to be proud of. Years of abuse and disregard by mining companies in search of almost every metal imaginable resulted in the river suffering a regular succession of fish kills due to releases of mining by-products such as arsenic and heavy metals. We're told it's not really that big of a deal though since all of the mining executives felt really really bad every time it happened. Because of these mining practices, though, Montana now has another dubious distinction that sets it apart from the rest of the country.

The area around Milltown has now become THE BIGGEST SUPER FUND CLEAN-UP SITE IN THE NATION! The fact that Montana has never turned down a mining permit, coupled with the dismal environmental record of Montana mining operations, has many of us a bit worried about the possibility of the CYANIDE LEACH mine at the headwaters of another one of Montana's best trout streams, the Blackfoot. That's right, "cyanide", "headwaters" and "best trout stream" were in the same sentence. Since there has never been a mine of this type that hasn't suffered accidental cyanide releases,we're sure hoping that the state got it in writing that the executives of THIS mine will also feel really bad when the fish go belly up. Over the years, due to much stricter water quality laws adopted in the early seventies, the Clark Fork began an amazing comeback which has brought it to today's status of, I believe, one of the absolutely best flyfishing rivers in the state.

Insect populations continue to increase yearly, and among these are the pollution sensitive stoneflies. The skwala (stonefly) hatch on the Clark Fork in April is unparalleled. Because of its size and the fact that fish tend to "pod up" on this river, the best fishing is usually to be had from a boat. There are some very good wade fishing opportunities available, but someone who is unfamiliar with the water could easily find himself fishing "worthless" water. The fish on the Clark Fork often times hold in very strange places, and sometimes they are nowhere to be found in "ideal" runs. Getting specific advice from someone who knows the Clark Fork is the key, probably more so than any other river around the Missoula area.

As the Clark Fork flows west out of Missoula, it winds its way primarily through sandy cottonwood bottoms and lush forest environs. By and large, it's a very slow and user friendly river to float except for a few sections that are seriously bad news. Unless you're a very experienced river runner who is specifically looking for whitewater, the section beginning at St.John's rest stop to the Tarkio ramp should be strictly off limits.

A day spent on the Clark Fork will be filled with wildlife ranging from big horn sheep to bald eagles. The scenery makes it hard to keep your eye on the fly. One of the best places on earth is the Clark Fork River on a warm summer night at about 10:00 PM as the evening hatch is winding down. The caddis are bouncing across the water and off the bill of your hat, the setting sun has turned the sky between the now darkened mountains a brilliant pink that slides into a starry black overhead. With the fish still actively feeding, you set your rod down, sit back taking it all in, content to let the darkness settle down around you as you try and remember all the fish you've just caught as well as the ones that got away. Never been to this place? You should go.

Jim's Clark Fork Flybox:

Streamers: Black, brown and green Buggers, yellow Zonkers, Muddlers
Dries: Parachute Adams sizes 10, 14, 16, 18; Thorax and Parachute PMD's 12,14,16; Comparaduns, yellow 12,14,16; brown 12,14,16,18; Royal Wulff: 12, 14, 20; Parachute Hoppers/yellow size 8; Ausable Wulff 14,16
Nymphs: Double Bead Stone, Montana Nymph, Bitch Creek size 8; Copper Bob 14,16,18; Flashback Hare's Ear 12,14; Beadhead Squirrel Tail 12,14,16; Pheasant Tail 14,16,18,20; Palemino/red size 18,20; San Juan worm, red and tan size 10; LaFontaine Sparkle Emergers/ green and tan sizes 12,14,16; Soft hackles: Pott's Peacock size 14, Carey Special-Peacock 14, 18

About the author: Jim Cox was raised on a ranch with the Clark Fork running through their back pasture. Since 1982 Jim has been both a big game guide and a fly fishing guide. A graduate of the University of Montana, Jim owns and operates both Montana Trout Trappers and the Kingfisher Fly Shop in Missoula. 1-888-542-4911

The Kingfisher, 926 East Broadway, Missoula, Montana 59802.