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Highway 89 – The Yellowstone River from Livingston to Gardiner
Exit 333: Livingston, Montana, route to Yellowstone National Park
The legendary Yellow-stone River inspires awe and reverence. From its source waters high in the Absaroka Mountains to its rendezvous with the Missouri River in North Dakota, the great Yellowstone River remains an uninterrupted, free-flowing river for over 600 miles.
Outside the Park, the river affords excellent fishing opportunities for both wade fishers and float fishers from Livingston to Gardiner. Below Livingston, the Yellowstone River offers excellent fishing to Big Timber. One disadvantage of this section is that the float fishing access points are further apart and access to the river is more restricted. For the most part, the Yellowstone River is an easily navigated river.
However, the three-mile section of water from Gardner to McConnell Landing is a whitewater section, as is the section from Joe Brown to Yankee Jim Canyon. This section requires an experienced whitewater oarsman. From the East River Road to Livingston is relatively easier to float, although braided channels, sharp turns and sweepers require the usual vigilance. Mayor's Landing on Eighth Street is the last Livingston take-out.
The Yellowstone River in the Park
Since the mileage marker 0 begins at the Park entrance and ends at mileage marker 60 in Livingston, I have decided to work backwards on the chance that you may be traveling to the park from Livingston. Shuttles may be arranged through the fly shops.
 MM 60: Livingston, Montana
MM 51: East River Road fishing access
MM 50: Carter Bridge
Carter Bridge has a good boat take-out and is a good spot for wade fishermen.
MM 45: Trail Creek fishing access
MM 43.3: Pine Creek
Take the Pine Creek road 1.4 miles to the bridge fishing access and boat launch.
MM 41.4: Mallards Rest Campground
The campground is a fee campground and offers 20 sites on a "pack it in – pack it out" basis. It also offers a boat launch and good access for wade fishers.
Note: From Carter Bridge to just above Point of Rocks, the East River Road parallels the river. The East River Road has Loch Levin Camp-ground, which is nine miles south of Livingston. Take the Pine Creek Road and head south again to the campground. Loch Levin Campground has 30 campsites, water, toilets and a boat launch.
MM 37.2: Mill Creek Bridge
Mill Creek Bridge has a private boat launch that is not posted. The gate is open, but I would skip this access unless you have a four-wheel drive vehicle. The launch is steep and rocky with little room to maneuver. Take the Mill Creek Road 11 miles to Snowbank Campground, which has 12 camping sites.
 Mill Creek
Cross the bridge and follow the paved road for six miles and then a dirt road for another 7.4 miles to a private meadow. Although the meadow is on private property, this section may be accessed later in the summer from the highway about a hundred yards downstream. Look for a pullout. Follow the fence line to public access to the water on National Forest land. However, be sure you stay under the high water mark at all times. The meadow gets fished heavily. Snowbank Campground is a fee campground with plenty of shade and garbage removal. Above the campground are some primitive campsites. The water is icy cold above the meadow section and interspersed with a lot of private property. Late in the summer small parachute hoppers work best.
East Fork of Mill Creek
Although the East Fork is small and shallow, small pockets and riffles offer up good catches of 8- to 10-inch cutthroats. It is a great creek for kids. The access road ends a mile and a half at a locked gate to a private ranch. The ranch can be bypassed by trail, but I did not have time to explore it.
West Fork of Mill Creek
The West Fork road cuts right through a Bible camp and climbs high up into a steep canyon. The creek is fast moving, but it does hold some nice pools and pockets in the canyon section. The road ends 5.8 miles at the trailhead. I walked down into the canyon, but the going is tough due to downed trees from the 1988 fire. The creek is loaded with 5- to 9-inch cutthroats, but it is also loaded with mosquitoes.
 MM 33.4: Fishing access.
MM 31: Emigrant, Montana
Take the road to the river and cross the bridge. On the other side of the bridge is a day-use site with a good boat launch, as well as good access for wade fishers.
Dailey Lake
Dailey Lake may be reached from the Mill Creek Road or from Emigrant. From Emigrant to the lake is eight miles. The lake is shaped like a silver dollar, and it is shallow all around the shoreline. Although the lake holds some trout, most of the locals fish for perch and walleye.
 MM 25.5: Fishing access.
MM 24: Big Creek
Don't judge this creek when you pass over it on the high-way. Big Creek fishing access is 5.5 miles from the highway and six miles to the trailhead. The road is bumpy, but the creek is charming and host to 7- to 9-inch cutthroats, which are plentiful.
MM 23.8: Meditation Point
Here is a rest area and picnic site large enough for the largest RVs with good fishing access to the river.
MM 21: Tom Miner Creek
Tom Miner Creek provides a nice campground 11 miles from the highway, but it is too small to be worth fishing. The scenic drive is beautiful as the road winds through open parks and aspen shaded hillsides.
MM 21: Point of Rocks
Point of Rocks has a boat launch.
MM 19.7: East River Road.
MM 18: Carbella Campground
Carbella is an unimproved campground one mile west of the Tom Miner Bridge. It has five campsites.
MM 13: Yankee Jim fishing access
Just upstream from Yankee Jim is the Slip and Slide access, but you will need to carry your boat to the water's edge.
MM 7.1: Corwin Springs Boat Launch
From the boat launch, visitors may take the dirt road that parallels the Yellowstone River on the western side. The road winds above the river for eight miles. It provides a few access points down to the river and passes a few primitive campsites.
MM 6.3: LaDuke Spring picnic site.
MM 3: McConnell Landing.
MM 0: Gardiner, Montana.
Interstate 90 – Livingston (Shields River)
 The Shields River begins in the Crazy Mountains, flowing past the small town of Wilsall and Clyde Park on Highway 89. This small bottomland river joins the Yellowstone River east of Livingston, Montana. Although the river holds some hefty browns, it is impacted by irrigation drawdowns and thermal heating during the summer months. It is best fished in the spring and fall. Most of the land is posted, affording few access points. Even the headwaters are mostly posted, and by the time public land is reached, the river is nothing more than a rivulet and home to very small cutthroats. One worthy side trip out of Livingston is Fairy Lake.
Fairy Lake
Fairy Lake is reached from Highway 89 near the town of Clyde Park or north of the town of Wilsall. The lake may also be easily reached 37 miles from Bozeman. The lake is 12 acres and sheltered in a bowl. Access to the lake is less than a quarter of a mile straight down a trail from the campground. Popular with weekend visitors from the Bozeman area, surprisingly few visitors fished this little gem on the Saturday that I visited the lake with Max, my young Labrador retriever. Expect to catch 9- to 12-inch cutthroats on small bead-head nymphs.
Interstate 90 – Livingston to Hardin
 The Boulder River
A twelve-and-a-half foot pram, even with a seven-inch rocker bottom, quickly becomes a liability in Class III white-water. The Boulder River during run-off is the playground of kayakers and whitewater rafters. Having checked the river in three locations the evening before, I convinced myself that I could safely drift the river seeking out sheltered nooks to fish. My last river mistake had taken place almost 20 years ago during spring run-off on the upper Bitterroot River. The memory of trying to save a custom-made fly rod that had been wrenched out of a man's hands and the ensuing nightmare served me well for those 20 years. My passengers were thrown out in relatively safe water. They were wearing life jackets so they quickly scrambled to shore. As the oarsman and owner of the raft, I was in trouble. At the tail end of the rapid, a pulsing logjam roared, gap-toothed like an evil jack-o-lantern ready to swallow up my life. My life jacket lay on the floor of the raft – I had mistakenly grabbed a child's vest for myself that morning. I was wearing chest waders without a belt. As the raft slowly rolled over in the trough and flipped for the second time, I grabbed the rope that ran the length of the tubes. When I saw the logjam, I instinctually reached out and snatched a willow branch. Later I would discover that it was the last willow tree that I could have snagged. The light straps holding the frame had broken, which sent the frame and all of my equipment to the bottom of the river.
 My filled waders pulled me down like a sea anchor. My left hand held a branch no bigger than my thumb. My right hand grasped one of the rings on the raft. With both arms stretched out, and my head barely above water, I realized I had no choice but to let go of the raft and offer it up to the logjam. As soon as I released the raft, I plowed under the water. I slowly inched my way to shore hand-over-hand on a thin willow branch. I was deeply ashamed of my poor judgment. I had tried to save a man's fly rod in swift water. My most serious error of judgment, however, was in thinking that I had the strength to row us out of harm's way. I was fearful that my mishap would be spread up and down the river, hurting my chances for employment as a river guide. From that day until a June 2001 day on the Boulder River, I had been an extremely cautious river boatman. How was it possible that I could have erred again?
I personally know of guides with 25 years of river floating experience who have never even had a close call. So, how could I have become complacent and careless?
Driving seven hours increased my anticipation for fishing this new water. The Boulder River, a tributary entering the Yellowstone River at Big Timber, has an excellent reputation for healthy rainbows and browns. Secondly, I was eager to test my small river pram on a few Class III sections. Pride and impulsiveness are more fitting a man in his prime than at age 56. I rigged up with a bead-head pheasant tail nymph, a small twist of lead and a strike indicator. My large cooler was in the front of the boat, and Max, my year-old Lab, quickly jumped on top of it so that he could better survey the river. I pulled the anchor into the boat. I wanted to take no unnecessary risks. My neoprene chest wad-ers fit snug. I finished my preparation by buckling the cross straps on my life jacket.
I launched at the Boulder Forks Access near McLeod. The water was fast, faster than I had calculated standing on the shore. Dropping into the first set of waves my boat seemed to shrink in size. I knew I would slice through the curl at the top of the wave, but I was surprised on how much water I actually took into the boat. Max, too, was surprised by the unexpected blanket of ice-cold water that drained off his coat. I had been surveying the water as a fisherman instead of a whitewater adventurer.
The Boulder River is well-named. Jagged rocks on both sides of the river forced me into the main chute, but it was not a clean run. A number of the rocks lie just inches under the splashing water. I was slow to react. When I quickly dodged the first obstacle, the boat's stern was caught in the chute, spinning me almost backwards. The quick maneuver caught Max off-guard, and he was straddling the cockpit rim halfway into the water. The two seconds that it took to drag Max back into the boat and move my fly rod out of the way almost led to the sinking of my boat.
When I attempted to spin around and line myself out, I was dropping into another chute, a position no boater wants to be. I knew I was in trouble when I saw the partially submerged boulder just in front of me. I slammed into it sideways. My next surprise was to see that Max had climbed back up on the cooler, and he was now plunging ass-back-wards and head-first into the churning water. I instinctively threw myself to the highest side of the boat, which was straddling the boulder. Digging the right oar into the water, I spun the boat around backwards and slipped into the chute for the second time facing the wrong direction. Fortunately, I had coated the bottom of the boat with a coat of epoxy mixed with graphite. I wasted no time in spinning the boat around. All I could see of Max was the top of his head. The water was so white and bubbly I could not see his body, but I knew from the position of his head that he was in a vertical position and dog paddling for his life. After about 30 yards we were reunited.
For the next set of rapids I stood up to get a better view. When I sat down, hurriedly I might add, I cracked the ¾-inch plywood seat in half. I was stunned to find myself on the bottom of the boat barely peering over the cockpit rim. I got through this stretch with one knee on the bottom and one leg stretched out in front of me. I pulled over and set up the cooler as my new seat and took a fishing break to calm my nerves. For the first time in my life, I was truly scared on the oars. My self-confidence was shaken.
The good news is that I had good fishing, catching three trout, two 12-inch rainbows and a small brown. For the next seven miles I had to pull over and take rest breaks. Each time I caught two or three fish. A Good Samaritan caught up to me in a 14-foot cataraft. He and his wife were taking out at the Eightmile Bridge and asked me if I would like to join them rather than go on for another seven miles of equally rough water. I am sure that if I had been younger, my pride would have kept me from accepting the offer. As it was, I was exhausted and very intimidated by the water. I gushed with gratitude and honestly conveyed my apprehension about going any further. When I helped him drag his cataraft up an embankment, I noticed that he had a rod case strapped to the frame. Darn if he wasn't combining a whitewater run with fishing. Hmmm…
The Boulder River tumbles down three separate canyons of the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness, almost 50 miles to the town of Big Fork, where it enters the Yellowstone River. The water plummets down a fair gradient and averages 45 to 60 feet across. True to its name, the entire river is studded with large and small boulders. Wading can be difficult on the slippery rocks, but the rewards can be great. Both rain-bows and browns move up from the Yellowstone to spawn, which provides some truly large lunkers for sure-footed waders who are smart enough to get out into the water. Resident trout in the lower river can reach 18 to 20-inches, while the rainbows and cutthroats in the National Forest section above the Natural Bridge State Monument typically run 10 to 14-inches. The Boulder River demands respect during spring run-off. It is not considered a float-fishing river. River runners should have a large raft or cataraft and be very experienced navigating white-water with little room for maneuverability. When the water drops in late July, it is impractical if not impossible to float through the miles of rock gardens.
Regardless of where you fish, the pocket water, fast chutes, short runs and broken riffles provide excellent fishing. Fish the river just as you would a large creek. Keep in mind that the fast riffles provide excellent lies and feeding zones for good-sized trout. The turbulence breaks just above the trout so they can rest comfortably on the bottom waiting for fast food deliveries. These fish are not picky. They have learned to be fast, grabbing opportunists. Use bead-head nymphs, a pinch of lead and a strike indicator. Fish upstream with short casts working each side of the boulder seams, as well as the pocket be-hind the boulder. Don't forget to fish directly in front of the boulder for typically smaller trout. Spin fishers should fish the water just like fly fishers. Keep the rod tip up and just let the lure tumble without snagging the bottom. Popular lures for all streams in Montana include small Panther Martins, Thomas Cyclones, Mepps, Kastmasters and Roostertails.
Fly pattern selections are typical of most cold water streams in Montana. Although the Boulder River has a Salmon Fly hatch, it is difficult to fish during late June. When the water becomes fishable, typically the first week of July, use standard dry fly patterns, heavy nymphs and watch for heavy caddis hatches in the evening. The Goddard Caddis works very well because of its exceptional floating quality. Hopper action is outstanding during the heat of summer. Be sure to put on a split-shot piece of lead and sink those hoppers in the pools, under bank cover and behind the boulders. Another effective technique is to use a greased Bailey's Muddler as a hopper pattern in the pocket water. If you don't catch a fish, let it sink and strip it in as a streamer. Although it is true that much of the Boulder River is not accessible due to private landowners, some of whom are very rich and famous, the river can be accessed at county bridges and state access points. Don't even bother drooling over the only section offering large pools and long runs. This stretch of river is posted for miles, and conveniently for them, the river exits the can-yon and the 70-foot falls. I looked for a trail down to the water, but it is an 80-foot straight drop to the tumbling water be-low. If you arrive during high water, be sure to fish above the falls in the National Forest section. Without the West Fork and the East Fork of the Boulder, the main stem above the falls fishes very well in late June using lures and weighted nymphs.
Don't waste your time with the East Fork. It is small and offers only a small campground and very active mine traffic. The primary source of platinum and palladium metals in the United States, the 28-mile long ore deposit is mined 18,500 feet below the surface from the East Boulder River mine to the Stillwater River near Nye. Platinum is used in jewelry, electrical devices found in computers and in the catalysts on our cars and trucks. The Big Timber Pioneer in its 2001 summer edition reported that the price per ton of platinum "hovered around $570 per ounce while palladium prices were around $840 per ounce.... The East Fork mine expects to mine... 3,000 tons of ore per day to produce between 450,000 and 500,000 ounces of platinum and palladium a year." If you wonder where all the waste material goes, look at the remnant piles on both sides of the Stillwater River downstream from the trailhead.
West Fork of the Boulder River
The West Fork of the Boulder River is almost entirely posted until it enters National Forest lands in the canyon. The West Boulder Road is reached just short of McLeod and the Boulder Forks Access. Take the West Boulder Road for 7.5 miles and turn left at the West Fork Boulder River National Forest Access, which goes through private property for another seven miles before reaching the canyon and public fishing access. The total mileage from Big Timber is 30.5 miles. The campground is situated on 10 acres with 10 sites. Tents and trailers. RV limit: 20 feet. Fire grates. Picnic tables. Pit toilets. Potable water. The trailhead to the wilderness winds through a half-mile of private property before it reaches the wilderness. The fish are naturally smaller, and the creek is steep and not easy to fish.
Access to the Boulder River
If you enter the town of Big Timber from Interstate 90 driving west, you will cross the Boulder River. Just across the bridge is the Old Boulder River Road, a dirt road that winds its way up the east side of the river for eight miles until it intersects with the county road at the Eightmile Bridge. Big Rock Fishing and Camping Access is 3.5 miles up Old Boulder Road. It offers great access to the river. It has no tables, but it does have a pit toilet facility.
Those fishermen daring to float the lower river put in at Big Rock and float down to the city park or further on down to where the river enters the Yellowstone River. The takeout on the Yellowstone River is Otter Creek Access. From Big Timber take Highway 191 north to Harlowton. Turn right 1.4 miles on Howie Road. Go another 1.3 miles to the Otter Creek Access on the banks of the Yellowstone River. Otter Creek offers a boat launch, an outhouse and shade. If you plan on floating down to Otter Creek, the closest access is the Pelican Access (Grey Cliff Bridge) 11.3 miles upstream.
To reach the upper Boulder River from Big Timber, turn south on McLeod Street (pronounced McCloud). Follow Highway 298 south to public fishing on National Forest lands.
8 miles: The Eightmile County Bridge offers access as well as a 10-foot slide to the water's edge for rafters.
16 miles: West Boulder turnoff.
16.5 miles: Boulder Forks State Fishing Access
This access offers a primitive camping spot with shade, a short run of the West Fork and an easy launch on the Boulder River.
19.2 miles: East Boulder Road
Anglers can fish a small section of the East Fork and work their way down to the Boulder. Be sure to stay below the high water mark. I watched an angler land and release two nice trout not very far from the bridge during the fall.
25 miles: Natural Bridge Forest Service boundary.
Picnic area with scenic overlooks and paved trails.
30 miles: Falls Creek Campground
Eight sites. Tent camping only. Tent pads provided. Potable water. Pit toilets. Fire grates.
 33 miles: Big Beaver Campground
Five sites. Tents and trailers. No tent pads. RV limit 32 feet. Fire grates. Pit toilets. Picnic tables. No potable water.
33.5 miles: Aspen Campground
Eight sites. Tents and trailers. Tent pads provided. RV limit 32 feet. Fire grates. Handicapped access toilets. Picnic tables. Potable water.
35 miles: Shipping Corral Picnic Site
Toilets. Picnic tables. Fire grates. Intended for day use only!
40.5 miles: Hell's Canyon Campground
11 sites. Tents and trailers. Tent pads provided. RV limit 16 feet. Not on the river but in walking distance. No potable water. Pit toilets.
42 miles: Lower Fourmile Dispersed Site
No sign. Four sites. No potable water. Pit toilet.
42.5 miles: Fourmile Guard Station
The cabin belongs to the Forest Service and is available for rent to the general public, 18 years of age or older, on a first-come, first-served basis. The Forest Service has priority use of the cabin at any time. Contact:
Big Timber Ranger District
P.O. Box 196
Big Timber, MT 59011
(406) 932-5155
46 miles: Hick's Park Campground
16 sites. Tents and trailers. Tent pads provided. RV limit 32 feet. In one area, two adjacent sites have three tables.
48 miles: Box Canyon End of maintained county road.
Interstate 90 – Columbus, Montana
The Stillwater River
Every reference to the source of the Stillwater's name offers the same conjecture – some early explorer left his sense of humor inked on some early map. Like its cousin river in the next drainage, the Stillwater too has boulders and can be treacherous during spring run-off. Wade fishing this river is not for the faint of heart or old guys short on breath with weak knees. Float fishers beware! From the Castle Rock Access down to Cliff Swallow Access, the Stillwater River garners respect and awe from veteran kayakers. Whitewater rafters float from Cliff Swallow to the town of Columbus. So what does this river have to offer visiting anglers? The answer is spectacular scenery, high trout populations, and relatively low angling pressure. Although most of the river tumbles down through private property, public access is provided throughout its length.
The source of the Stillwater lies deep within the canyon walls of the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness at the northern edge of Yellowstone National Park. The trailhead is at Wood-bine Campground. The wilderness section is not always easy to fish, but rainbows, cutthroats and brookies from 7 to 10-inches eagerly rise to large attractor patterns. Three and a half miles up the trail from Woodbine Campground, hikers will see a three-acre pond named Sioux Charley Lake. The "lake" is marshy in places, very shallow and is host to small brookies. In and around Woodbine Campground are a few protected spots for smaller trout, but the river is scoured and offers poor fishing prospects for the next three miles down to the mine.
The first public access after the mine is a picnic site. Floaters in late June will discover clear but cold water from the picnic site below the mine down to Moraine Fishing Access. Even this section has some tricky water that could spoil a float trip. After the Moraine Fishing Access, rafters should exit the remainder of the river. Keep in mind that a number of commercial whitewater companies ply their trade on the Stillwater from the Johnson Bridge just out-side the town of Absarokee down the river to Fireman's Point. By mid-summer the upper river and mid-section is too low to float. The advantage of this swift and tumbling river for the wade fisher is long stretches of fishing water without the intrusion of floaters, a rarity in Montana. The state of Montana offers a number of access sites beginning just outside the town of Columbus, where the Stillwater River enters the Yellowstone River.
Three tributaries in-crease the volume of water in the Stillwater River. The first is the West Fork of the Stillwater River near Nye. The second contributor is the West Rosebud Creek, which drains Mystic Lakes and enters the Stillwater, after first joining East Rosebud Creek, three miles south of Absarokee on Highway 78. During early summer both Rosebud Creeks are quite muddy. During this time, fishing is best above the Rosebud Creeks.
Columbus, Montana
The town site is right on the banks of the Yellowstone River. The city provides a spacious campground and boat launch at Itch-Kep-Pe, next to the Highway 78 bridge, less than a mile and a half from Interstate 90. The campground is shaded. The small town of Absarokee is 14 miles south on Highway 78 after crossing the bridge over the Yellow-stone River. For travelers heading to Yellowstone National Park who want fantastic scenery along the way, continue 47 miles through the town of Absarokee and follow the route to Red Lodge. From Red Lodge follow the spectacular Beartooth Highway to the Cooke City entrance to the Park.
Side Trip – Highway 78: Columbus to Absarokee
MM 3.3: Fireman's Point
Fireman's Point provides good access to a long stretch of river as well as a raft launch. The landing during high water is difficult, and rafts need to be dragged up a wood slide.
MM 7.3: Swinging Bridge Access
Camping is allowed.
MM7.8: White Bird Access
Camping is allowed.
MM 14: Absarokee
From the town of Absarokee the traveler has four roads to choose from, which lead to three separate fisheries. Continuing on Highway 78 leads to East Rosebud Lake. Or from Highway 78 south of Absarokee take Highway 425 to Rosebud Creek, Emerald Lake, and Mystic Lake. The third choice is to take Highway 419 to the Buffalo Jump Bridge on the Stillwater River at the community of Nye. The fourth choice in roads is to take Highway 420, which parallels the Stillwater River to Nye. To think that Robert Frost struggled with only two choices in his poem, "The Road Not Taken"! Clearly, he was not a fly fisher, or he would surely have come back and taken the more traveled route as well!
Absarokee to Nye Along Highway 420 along the Stillwater River
Just outside of Absarokee, make a right turn off Highway 420 to Absaroka Campground and the Johnson Bridge, which offers fishing access plus a raft launch. Continuing on Highway 420, the pavement peters out and the next access is Cliff Swallow Fishing Access, followed by Castle Rock Fishing Access and then Moraine Fishing Access. The Moraine Access is just a couple of miles from the Buffalo Jump Campground at the Nye Bridge. Just before you reach the junction of High-way 419 at the Nye Bridge, you will cross the West Fork of the Stillwater River. Most of the West Fork travels through private property and is posted. The upper reaches in the wilderness section reportedly fish well for small rainbows and cutthroats. I am sorry but I completely missed this one. The easiest access looks to be from the Stillwater Mine. The road winds up above the mine and then drops over to the trailhead.
Absarokee to Nye along Highway 419
Take Highway 78 heading south from Absarokee to the junction with Highway 419. The road is paved all the way to Nye, but just after the community of Dean there are many annual potholes and breaks. Three miles from the junction with Highway 78 is Fish Tail and Rosebud Isle Fishing Access. Before reaching the community of Nye, travelers may stop at Dean, which offers a fly shop, a restaurant and a saloon. The road then crosses the river at Buffalo Jump Campground. Less than a mile from the bridge, Highway 420 joins Highway 419 right across from a restaurant. The next fishing access is the Old Nye Picnic Site just below the mine. The road then continues past the mine to the trailhead at Woodbine Campground. Woodbine Campground is beautiful and offers 43 camp-sites, all of which have paved entries. Trailer spaces are pro-vided for trailers up to 30 feet. Concessionaire operated.
Absarokee to Emerald Lake and Mystic Lake
From the town of Absarokee, take Highway 420 to Fish Tail and Rosebud Isle. Turn left on Highway 425 (West Rosebud Road) to Mystic Lake. After traveling 6.6 miles to where the pavement ends, a sign reads: Pine Grove Campground nine miles, Emerald Lake 13 miles and Mystic Lake Trail-head 14 miles, which is the end of the road. Pine Grove Campground has 46 sites, many of which are suitable for trailers up to 30 feet. Fishing access and unimproved camping sites are available just past the campground. Emerald Lake is a shallow 50-acre lake annually stocked with rainbows, most of which never see a second season. Mystic Lake is three miles from the trailhead. The lake is actually a Montana Power Company reservoir two miles long and a half-mile across. The lake offers good fishing at the inlet for 8- to 12-inch rainbows, a few lunkers and lots of smaller cutthroats. Island Lake is six miles from the trailhead, past Mystic Lake, and offers similar fishing. The Stillwater River above Island Lake reportedly fishes very well for rainbows and cutthroats.
 Absarokee to East Rosebud Lake
From the town of Absarokee, take Highway 78 south 14 miles to the small town of Roscoe. Exit Highway 78 at Roscoe and take the East Rosebud River Road. The road is a dirt road; then at 8.2 miles the pavement starts again as the roads enters the National Forest. The entire area was ravaged by fire in 1996, but the surrounding rugged vistas, in spite of the fire, awe first-time visitors. East Rosebud Creek runs through private property until it enters the National Forest. The creek offers good fishing for small trout. The Lower Sand Dunes picnic site is at 9.2 miles and Upper Sand Dunes is at 9.5 miles from Roscoe. At 11.9 miles the pavement ends, and the road is extremely bumpy. Although it is posted at 25 mph, the natural speed bumps keep travelers creeping along at 10 mph. East Rosebud Lake and Campground is 14.2 miles from Roscoe.
 The lake is surrounded by private property established in 1894. The property owners provide a courtesy boat launch site for the general public. Be sure to check in at the store. The lake fishes well for 10- to 15-inch rainbows.
The trailhead parking area provides an area for stock. Popular with trail riders and hikers, the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness, established in 1978, covers 953,377 acres of pristine wilderness. For further information contact the Beartooth Ranger District Office in Red Lodge, Montana.
From the East Rosebud Trailhead the wilderness boundary is a half–mile, Elk Lake is 3.5 miles, Rim Rock Lake is six miles, Rainbow Lake is seven miles, and Lake of the Falls is nine miles. Elk Lake is a shallow 5-acre lake holding small brookies; Rim Rock Lake is eight acres and reportedly offers only fair fishing for 8- to 12-inch rainbows. Rainbow Lake is said to provide good fishing for 8- to 12-inch rain-bows.
Interstate 90 – Laurel to Red Lodge
Side Trip – Rock Creek and the Beartooth Highway
Described as one of the most spectacular and scenic high-ways in America, the Beartooth Highway from Red Lodge to the northeast entrance of Yellowstone National Park in Cooke City, Montana, offers both good fishing and stunning views. The 68-mile drive winds its way up from lush forest, through countless switchbacks to sub-alpine plateaus. Twenty-nine mountains thrust their jagged peaks into the Big Sky at elevations exceeding 12,000 feet. The highway enters Wyoming near the summit and re-enters Montana about seven miles outside of Cooke City.
 From the summit visitors scan hundreds of lakes nestled in glacial carvings on the edges of plateaus and in hollowed amphitheaters. Many are barren, but surprising numbers hold hearty strains of golden trout and Yellowstone cut-throats. Summer does not linger in this country. Violent thunderstorms and plummeting temperatures can scurry visitors and photographers to the comfort of their vehicles anytime before the road closes for the winter.
Rock Creek, flowing past the town of Red Lodge, has its beginnings high up in the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilder-ness. Anglers and campers wishing to fish Rock Creek and Wyoming's waters on their way to Yellowstone National Park will find the easiest route off Interstate 90 at Laurel, Montana. Follow Highway 310 for 13.8 miles south to its junction with Highway 212 to Red Lodge. Highway 310 follows the general course of the Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone River, a river not worthy of fishing due to degradation, unless you are a local and have time to search out sections holding good-sized browns during the fall. From Laurel to Joliet the creek is without public access, but it is not considered a productive stretch. From Joliet we begin our journey into one of Montana's jewels. Keep in mind that the mileage markers begin in Cooke City and increase in numbers towards Joliet.
MM 96: Joliet, Montana.
MM 90: Cooney Reservoir
Cooney Reservoir is a shallow lake best fished in the early morning hours. The lake offers a state fee campsite. The lake is 28,400 acre feet and provides fair fishing since its 1982 rehabilitation, but don't expect an alpine setting.
MM 82: Roberts, Montana.
MM 84.5: Rest Area
Rest area with public access to Rock Creek. Rock Creek suffers greatly during drought cycles and demands from irrigators. The creek is best fished during spring and fall.
MM 79: White Birch Fishing Access and Campground
MM 76: Fox/Bench Road Fishing Access.
Red Lodge, Montana
MM 60.7: Ratine Campground
Ratine Campground is eight miles south of Red Lodge. It has access to the creek and offers six sites, with a 16-feet trailer restriction.
MM 60: Pullout access to the creek.
Parkside Campground
Twelve miles south of Red Lodge, Parkside Campground has 28 campsites, a 32-feet trailer restriction. It is operated by a concessionaire, as is the neighboring campground Greenough Lake.
Greenough Lake Campground
Offering 18 sites with trailer spaces up to 30 feet, the camp-site has easy access to the creek plus a small pond, which is planted with fingerling trout.
Limber Pine Campground
Limber Pine Campground abuts Greenough Lake Camp-ground and has 13 campsites with a 32-feet trailer restriction. A bridge crosses Rock Creek to the Rock Creek Road, which continues a short distance to the M-K Camp-ground.
M-K Campground
A mile or so from Limber Pine Campground, M-K is a non-fee campground with no services. It offers 10 camp-sites with easy access to the creek. From the campground to the road's end at the trailhead to Glacier Lake, the going is slow and bumpy. For those of you who want secluded and primitive camping, a number of beautiful spots may be found ahead. However, the fishing high up in this canyon is only fair for small fry.
Glacier Lake
The trailhead to Glacier Lake is at the end of the Rock Creek Road, another three or four miles past M-K Campground. Glacier Lake is a deep, 150-acre lake and offers both beauty and good fishing for good-sized cutthroats. Fair warning, however, the one-mile hike is straight up!
MM 39.4: Wyoming Border, Shoshone National Forest
Heading down the highway to Cooke City, one will need a Wyoming fishing license. The first popular high-elevation lake is Long Lake, followed by Little Bear Lake and then Island Lake. Island Lake has a campground with a boat launch. It is stocked with rainbows and includes cutthroats and brookies that cruise the shoreline during late afternoon and evening. Just down from Island Lake is the Top of the World Store. The store sells Wyoming fishing licenses, gas, food, as well as renting some very rustic cabins. The next large lake accessible from the highway is Beartooth Lake, which offers camping, a boat launch and some very large lake trout in addition to rainbows and cutthroats. If you are heading for the Park or Cooke City, continue past the high-way junction to Cody, Wyoming. Highway 212 goes right past the upper Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone, which is a good fishing stream, a small part of which lies in Montana. In and around Cooke City are a number of campgrounds and trailheads to secluded lakes. This is beautiful country!
Return to Interstate 90 from Billings to Hardin.
Interstate 90 – The Big Horn River
Forty-two miles from Billings, Montana, the Bighorn River glides through the Crow Indian Reservation to the town of Hardin and then onwards to the Yellowstone River. From the Interstate 90 exit at Hardin to Fort Smith the two-lane country road winds another 48 miles through dry rolling hills and fertile ranch land to the Yellowtail Dam boat ramp. The breathtaking scenery of buttes and coulees compete with the jagged overthrust of snow-capped mountains, both in Wyoming and Montana. The tall prairie cottonwood trees line the river bottom, and the cold, pristine waters provide an aquatic underworld rich in plant life and insect life. Completed in 1965, the Yellowtail Dam transformed a slow prairie river into one of the finest trout streams in the United States; however, from 1975 to 1981 the Crow Indian government closed the river to non-tribal members.
In 1981 the United States Supreme Court affirmed both state and federal access rights to the waters of the Bighorn River up to the high water mark, which is defined as the "continuous area where vegetation ceases". The Bighorn River's reputation grew quickly. Splashed across the covers of outdoor magazines, the Bighorn River's fame inspired fly fishers from around the country to test its fabled waters. Renowned as one of the best tailwater fisheries in the world, legions of fly fishers arrive yearly to fish the 13-mile stretch of tailwater, and few go away disappointed.
 Although the piscatorial wonders of this river are undisputed, paradise and solitude are two terms rarely joined together in describing this river. Fifty boats on the same 13-mile stretch is not an exaggeration, nor is the much-touted statistic of 5,000 to 6,000 fish per mile. Factor in browns that average 14 to-16 inches and rainbows averaging 16 to 18-inches, and it is no wonder so many visitors are willing to experience a circus-like atmosphere of multi-colored rafts and drift boats.
Another preeminent factor for the Bighorn River's reputation is the extended fishing season. The Yellowtail Dam, impounding almost 70 miles of canyon water, re-leases water from the bottom of Bighorn Lake. Although fluctuations may adversely impact fishing, water temperatures from the mid-40s to the mid-60s foster trout growth for most of the year, unlike some rivers where trout have a short growing season due to chilly water conditions throughout most of the year.
The river is open year-round, but practically speaking, the winter months of December through February can be grim, when one considers below-zero readings and the wind chill factor. Nonetheless, hearty locals and adventuresome out-of- towners ply the waters throughout these winter months fishing with tiny midge patterns tossed to lethargic fish in the more quiet pools. March and April welcome temperatures in the low to mid 50s and water temperatures in the low 40s. March anglers still predominately fish the midge hatches, but by late April Baetis begin to show up, which provides for some excellent nymphing opportunities. Standard patterns such as the Gold-ribbed, Hare's Ear and Pheasant Tail nymphs prevail, but be sure to stock up on specialty patterns from one of the local fly shops, especially for shrimp patterns, scuds and sow bugs. (I had great success with a San Juan Worm with a brass bead in the center.) May and June are less crowded as local fishermen and visitors alike measure the impact of spring run-off.
May temperatures range from the mid 60s to the low 70s with water temperatures slowly climbing above the mid 40s mark. The Baetis hatch comes into fruition, which offers both dry and nymph fishing possibilities. River flows increase from a low of 2,000 cfs to above 6,000 cfs. Ideal floating conditions diminish above 6,000 cfs. As the river grows in both volume and size, the fish become dispersed. Even when other Montana rivers are blown out, good fishing may still be experienced from the dam down to the three-mile access point. By late June some of the fishing pressure is reduced with the appearance of the Salmon Fly hatch on many other famous rivers in the region. Bead-head nymphs and San Juan worms are especially popular at this time.
July through August draws hordes of anglers, and for good reason. Daytime temperatures range from the high 70s to the high 80s, with the water temperatures gradually increasing from the low 50s to the high 60s. But the real draw is the fantastic dry fly fishing brought on by the small, yellow stonefly, the Pale Morning Dun hatch, the Baetis hatch and the ubiquitous arrival of the Grannom (black) Caddis. Adding to the enchantment of these hatches is the spinner fall in the evening and the beginning Trico hatch. It is no wonder that the river is so crowded. Surprisingly, the trout display great tolerance for this daily flotilla. Perhaps the trout, hidden in the undulating waves of plant life, are impervious to the blending shadows from passing boats. Given the size of the water, the available numbers of fish and the plethora of insect life, most people are pleasantly surprised with their success rate during these popular months.
September and October cool the hot days of summer with temperatures again in the mid 70s and water temperatures correspondingly settling back to the mid 50s. By October the Tricos are on the wane, but the Baetis hatch is still an important one, as is the evening caddis hatch. By November the waters are downright chilly again, dipping down to the mid-40s. Streamers such as Wooly Buggers, Zonkers, leech patterns and Matukas should be readily at hand.
I finally fished the fabled waters of the Bighorn River, and I am saddened when I reflect that it took me 19 years to finally fish it (testimony to the multitude of competing waters in this wonderful state). Getting off the river at 8 pm, on my first day on the river, I headed down the road for a nine-hour drive home. I had not gone 10 miles before planning my next trip. The next day I posted the following trip report on my web site.
Saga: October 25, 2000 – The Bighorn River
I slept in the back of my truck near the launch site at the BLM campground near the dam. Pulling up to the launch site below the dam at 7:30 am, I discovered that I was not the early bird. Within the next 20 minutes, guides and fishermen flew into the area. Gentlemen, start your engines! It was incredible how many boats arrived in waves, like convoys crossing the Atlantic during World War II. No one seemed to have the time to be neighborly. Few hellos were exchanged. It was a race to the water with the guides projecting a no-nonsense demeanor reminiscent of Ward Bond in the old television series "Wagon Train". Ten boats launched while I was still climbing into my waders and rigging up. I could feel the excitement and anticipation. Three hours after launching, I was frustrated and irritated that I had not one strike. Although the fishing was slow due to water manipulation, I could see others fighting fish as they drifted past me.
I played leapfrog with some of the boats as we drifted down the river. Regretfully, I have to admit that I found solace in the fact that they too had not caught a thing. The number of boats in the 13-mile stretch that I floated easily numbered close to 50. We traveled in packs, breaking up and then re-assembling like mallards over a grain field. I resented the jubilant loudmouths who whooped and hollered when they hooked a fish. Their triumphant voices seemed to echo for miles, and there was no joy in this man's Mudville. Hearing their whoops of delight, I got out of the boat to fish a promising spot, only to have some party glide down and let out a holler directly in front of me. During the first three hours, I couldn't buy a fish. I had spent 50 bucks on flies and incidental supplies in a nearby shop. The proprietor drew a diagram on how to precisely set up the strike indicator, the split shot and the two flies. I followed his directions to the letter. When the water surface was broken by the morning's first rises, I strained to see if the fish were actually feeding on the surface for sporadic Baetis duns or whether they were just under the surface film capturing nymphs. I agonized over whether I should break out a small Parachute Adams or Blue-Wing Olive.
While I drifted in solitude, I searched for every possible reason why I wasn't catching anything. I finally concluded that I was conceivably casting too far out. Seated in my low profile boat, a combination duck boat and riverboat, I was unable to see the subtle takes of those browns hiding in the heavy weed cover as I manned the oars. My theory proved to be correct. I was not really staring intently at my strike indicator as I drifted my flies and navigated the river. Indeed, the takes were very subtle! I started flipping my rig right along side of the boat and stuck my first brown. Alas, I lost five weighty fish in a row. Two of them I had to break off when I had to grab the oars to maneuver around an anchored boat. It was heart-breaking because they were really close to the boat. I tried holding the rod between my knees while I rowed, but it didn't work.
I anchored the boat too soon on one large fish and couldn't pull up the anchor in time when he made a run downstream. The fifth fish I lost when I jumped out of the boat and forgot my net. These are all actions that are taken for granted by clients. When a client or a partner hooks a fish, the rower takes on a number of responsible actions. I reflected on the night before when I had squeezed in two hours of fishing before dark and had caught only one 15-inch brown on a dry – not much to brag about. I was feeling defeated until I landed a 17-inch brown at mid-day.
After that fish was landed and safely released, I could do no wrong. I went on to land at least 10 more browns, only one of which was under 14 inches. With that lone exception, all of the trout were in the 14- to 16-inch range. I savored every moment of the 13-mile float from the dam down to the Bighorn access. As the sun began to sink, the evening caddis hatch triggered action on the top, but I didn't stop to change my rig. I was quite satisfied with the action I was having casting into small pods of rising trout with a bead-head nymph and a trailing scud. I even ended the day with a great "one-that-got-away" story. I humbly submit that I have not had a Montana or a Wyoming or an Idaho fish ever take me down to my backing. I have always been amazed at this expression so freely added for dramatic effect. Through the years I have caught a number of trout in the 20-inch range, but I have never had this experience until that day.
I won't bore you with the details. Suffice to say that this hog took me down to my backing two times. Jumping out of my boat, I moved down through a crotch-high riffle, working him in for my moment of triumph. I lost him in 12 inches of rocky, weed-infested water when my line caught on a rock. My mother's Irish creed of "Hope for the best, but expect the worse" bubbled up to my consciousness as I reeled in the slack line and advanced toward the fish. On my approach, the resting rainbow snapped the 5X tippet and escaped. I saw his tail and back. He was huge, but I had no regrets over losing him.
An hour and a half from Billings, fishing the Bighorn takes a lot of planning, as it is really out of the way. Hardin has a number of hotels. For those that can afford to stay at a nice lodge on the river, I recommend the Bighorn River Resort (800) 665-3799 or the Bighorn River Lodge (800) 235-5450. Public campsites are located at Mallard's Landing and the Bighorn access. Operated by the Montana Department of Fish, Wildlife and Parks, each site offers a couple of campsites, an outhouse and a boat ramp. The next public campground is just outside of Fort Smith and is a Bureau of Land Management campground. It is the nicest of the public campgrounds.
The first campground out of Hardin is at Mallard's Landing. The Bighorn access, which is 13 miles from the launch site at Yellowtail Dam, offers two separate ramps, a bit of shade and a seven-day camping limit. During the summer of 2000 the fee schedule was $10 per night, per camper if no one in the party held a Montana fishing license. With a Montana fishing license from at least one member in the group, the fee was $5 dollars per camper. The only private campground is a half-mile from the Three-Mile Access. Cottonwood Camptonwood Camp is a complete and full-service camp-ground and lodging facility for sportsmen and families. The camp is located less than a mile off Highway 31, just off the Three-Mile access road at the second left and only three miles from Fort Smith. (Cottonwood Camp, P.O. Box 7667, Fort Smith, Montana 59035 (406) 666-2391) Fort Smith offers a number of fly shops, a cafe, a motel, a market, shuttle services and boat rentals, but BYOB as Fort Smith is a dry town.
Don't expect solitude, and keep your expectations from getting the better of you as you race to get on the water, which is, of course, easier said than done. I can still hear my Hardy Princess reel screaming and the sound of the deep wallop that only a big rainbow can make. At the take out a number of men were regaling in the story of a guide, fishing on his day off with a friend on this same day and same stretch of water. He landed a 27 incher. Oh, Montana...
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