Fishing and Hiking in Glacier National Park

Fishing and Camping in Glacier National Park

Covering 1,584 square miles of majestic mountains and icy glaciers, the mountainous wonders of Glacier National Park are viewed by over two million visitors a year. Unlike Yellowstone National Park, which is a mecca for fly fishers from all around the country, Glacier National Park does not host legendary Montana trout fishing rivers and streams like the rivers draining out of Yellowstone National Park.

Float fishers, however, will be delighted with the stunning scenery and good fishing that the North Fork and Middle Fork of the Flathead River provides. These forks serve as the Park boundaries. Glacier does offer good fishing opportunities in over 50 lakes for those fishers who are willing to trek four to six miles or more into the interior lakes. Consider the added pleasure of fishing a bonus to a scenic hike into the wilder-ness. When fishing high mountain lakes, anglers should prepare themselves for the fickle variance of weather and finicky trout. As with most day-hike fishing trips, the fishing generally picks up towards evening when you are arriving back at your vehicle.

Since the late 1960s, Glacier National Park has not stocked trout, preferring to enhance and protect native species such as cutthroat, lake trout, bull trout and Arctic grayling. Thirty years later, Park anglers enjoy the fruits of a more natural ecology. With this opportunity comes the responsibility for preserving and maintaining these wild trout populations. Please consider adopting the practice of catch-and-release and using single, barbless hooks. A secondary incentive for this conservation practice is that you further protect yourself from curious bears and their incredible olfactory powers.

Although I have included some backcountry trips with my donkey Buddy, my basic goal in this guidebook is to cover backcountry lakes that may be reached in a day hike. When I decided to expand this book, I resolved to person-ally fish most of the waters covered in this book. However, sometimes goals are quickly modified with a dose of reality. Glacier National Park has just too many lakes to cover in two or three summers. Many of the lakes covered in this book I did not fish, especially the larger lakes, which are fished best from a boat; some of the lakes I fished for a short time before heading back down the trail. Hard hikes of six or seven miles I passed up, preferring to gather information from other fishing and hiking books on Glacier.

For those of you who prefer to backpack and fish the backcountry lakes, I would recommend Russ Schneider's book, Fishing Glacier National Park (ISBN: 1-56044-626-9). Another book that I recommend is Hiker's Guide to Glacier National Park, which is published by the Glacier Natural History Association in cooperation with the National Park Service (ISBN: 0-915030-24-1).

Fishing Tips for Glacier National Park

Most of the Park's smaller lakes are home to brook trout, cutthroat and bull trout. Cutthroat will generally cruise along the shoreline during the day, providing opportunities for the fly fisher. With the approach of dusk, however, the spin fisher will have the advantage by tossing a water-filled bubble far out into the lake and slowly reeling in a small nymph such as a Gold-Ribbed Hare's Ear, a Zug Bug, a bead-head Prince or a drowned Elk Hair Caddis. Backpackers with belly boats and flippers will find greater opportunities for those trout cruising just out of range from the shore. If you are a spin fisher, small popular lures such as Mepps, Thomas Cyclone, Rappala and Daredevils are Park standards, as they are for most trout lakes.

If you are new to fly-fishing on a lake, I would suggest carrying an assortment of size 16 and 18 dry fly standards such as a yellow Humpy, Parachute Adams, Royal Wulffs, Renegades and Elk Hair Caddis. If you are fishing the outlet of a lake, be sure to have some ant and beetle patterns for late in the summer. Finally, be sure your fly box has a few Girdle Bugs and streamers. One of the best sources for fly fishing high-elevation mountain lakes is Gary LaFontaine's book, Fly Fishing the Mountain Lakes. Glacier National Park provides excellent cutthroat fishing in the North Fork of the Flathead River and the Middle Fork of the Flathead River.

Be sure to read the fishing regulations carefully. Keep in mind that your best source of fishing information is often the Park rangers, as Glacier has no stocking pro-grams, and trout populations are adversely impacted by harsh winters. Additionally, trails are often closed due to bear activity or snow conditions. Many of the higher elevation lakes are not reached or fishable until early to mid-July. Be sure to bring bug spray, and for some lakes a mosquito net is essential early in the summer. Regarding the Park's policy on stocking trout, "the National Park Service no longer plants fish in Park waters... The reason is simple. The introduction of exotic game fishes was found to be detrimental to Glacier's native fishes. Predation and competition for space and food adversely affected several native species, and hybridization between indigenous and non-native species of fish also occurred. The native westslope cutthroat trout has been all but eliminated from several lakes, where it was once the dominant species. Today the National Park Service is engaged in fisheries research to determine the extent of damage to native fish populations, and to explore possible means for re-establishing native fishes in some waters where they have been eliminated or replaced by hybrid populations...for the benefit and enjoyment of future generations." -Park newsletter

Glacier National Park's Boundary Waters

Floating the North Fork and Middle Fork of the Flathead River

The combined area of Glacier National Park and the Flat-head National Forest will keep any angler busy with over 2,000 miles of streams and more than 900 lakes, most of which provide naturally-reproducing trout. The Flathead River has been designated as a National Wild and Scenic River, which Congress declared "shall be preserved in free-flowing condition, and that they and their immediate environments shall be protected for the benefit and enjoyment of present and future generations...."

The three forks of the Flathead River testify to the raw force of nature and qualify as part of the National Scenic River Act. Essentially a migratory fishery out of Flathead Lake, the forks of the Flathead River offer unspoiled beauty. With one look at the high water marks and the scrubbed riverbed, a fisher will know immediately why he or she is sharing the river with white-water rafters and kayakers.

Basically the force of spring run-off in glaciated country dooms the forks to a nutrient-deficient environment. This in turn impacts the insect hatches and limits the opportunity for resident trout populations. For the wade angler, all three forks have limited accessibility due to steep canyons and private property on the North Fork and the Middle Fork.

Rafters should have white-water experience before they attempt float fishing any one of the three forks. Some of the coldest river water in the state is found on the South Fork and the North Fork. Rafters need to be properly equipped, experienced and prepared. Although low water levels appear by mid-August, each of the forks offers class II and III spots that can sneak up on rafters intent on catching fish.

The International Scale for River Difficulty grades water based on the characteristics and action of the water as well as how much maneuvering is called for in a given passage. The North Fork, after high water, is generally a Class II water, although some dangerous Class III water may be found between Big Creek and Glacier Rim.

The Middle Fork offers Class IV and V whitewater in certain stretches during high water. The South Fork below Spotted Bear is generally rated Class II and III. I highly recommend the guide "Three Forks of the Flathead River - Floating Guide", published by the Glacier Natural History Association in cooperation with the Flathead National Forest and Glacier National Park. I would also recommend the Montana Afloat river maps, which may be purchased at most of the local fly shops.

At this point I need to add a disclaimer. My descriptions of the forks of the Flathead River are taken from numerous public sources and are not intended as a reliable river guide. I have never floated any section that is rated over class III.

Anyone attempting to float these rivers should contact local experts. Finally, float fishers should have a clear understanding of their own boating capabilities and never attempt to float and fish waters beyond their capabilities. Many float fishers have never practiced self-rescue, nor are they trained in rescue skills, CPR or first aid. I am always amazed at how poorly prepared many floaters are in pre-paring for a fishing trip. In truth, I, too, have been careless in preparing for some outings. Knowing the responsibility that I owe all of my passengers, it always makes me feel a little uneasy when I find I have missed an item or two. Float fishers should always have the following items in their raft or drift boat.

Any family member who has lost a loved one from a boating accident will implore you to insist that every passenger wear an approved life jacket. Keep a lifeline handy at all times as well as a spare oar. Bring along plenty of rope and a first aid kit. A dry bag for extra clothes is essential. Keep this bag where it can be easily grabbed. Add to this bag the necessary provisions for starting a fire, and be sure to throw in some extra batteries for the flashlight. For years I carried a flare in my dry bag when I floated in the late fall or winter. A flare is a quick fire starter. Beware of the vagaries of weather. Hypothermia is always a present danger in Montana. Even water temperatures in the high 50s can drain one's strength and rob the body of heat loss. A good knife and a fold-up saw are essential. The biggest safety tip is the most obvious and most often overlooked: the oarsman should be completely sober and alert at all times. This means scanning the river ahead 100 yards at a time and pulling over to scout any difficult passage. As the accompanying photograph attests, taking your eyes of the river or helping a buddy land a fish is the primary factor in many river accidents.

I once watched a man excitedly fishing a pod of rising rainbows. He had turned his gaze behind the boat and was attempting to catch one of the sippers behind him. The sweeper, a tall cottonwood tree stretching out into the river, was clearly visible for 200 yards. I yelled at the man, but I was too far back, and my voice did not carry. The tree flipped him out of his small boat and dumped him into the chilly waters in one quick motion. Although I can not claim to have rescued him, he was extremely grateful when I came along and provided him with warm clothes and helped him to aright his boat. I wish I could be smug and arrogant, but I, too, was once a fool and flipped a raft with two anglers. The following is a paraphrased American version of the International Scale for River Difficulty.

International Scale for River Difficulty

Class I: Very easy - Class I water provides small, regular waves with few obstacles. Very little maneuvering is necessary.

Class II: Novice - Class II water requires some maneuvering but medium-sized waves are avoidable.

Class III: Intermediate - Class III water offers numerous waves, narrow passages and precise maneuvering to avoid large waves, rocks or sweepers. Scouting may be required. Boat fishers with little river experience should not attempt Class III waters.

Class IV: Advanced - Class IV challenges kayakers with in-tense rapids, abrupt bends, narrow passages, and precise maneuvering. Precision maneuvers are required with no options! Scouting is usually required, and self-rescue may be difficult.
Class V: Expert - Class V water clearly raises the level of risk for kayakers with long rapids, wild turbulence and extremely congested routes. Complex maneuvering requires scouting.

Class VI: Extreme-Limits of Navigation - Nearly impossible and a definite hazard to life. Note: A detailed, spiral-bound series of maps of all three forks may be purchased at the following information centers:

Glacier View Ranger District
774 Railroad Street EN
Columbia Falls, MT 59912
Information: (406) 892-4372

Hungry Horse Ranger District
Box 340
Hungry Horse, MT 59919
Information: (406) 387-5243

Hiking Tips

Fishing in Glacier National Park presents some risks. Of serious concern is preparing for the weather. Summer temperatures may range in the high 80s to low 90s. A common axiom in the mountain communities of Montana is that if you don't like the weather, stick around another 15 minutes! The summer rainfall averages two inches per month. More importantly, daytime temperatures can plummet with the arrival of storm clouds, regardless of how warm the day starts. The eastern border of the Park along the Rocky Mountain Front is always subject to wind blowing up through the canyons across the lakes. It is not uncommon for overnight lows to drop below freezing anywhere in the Park. In August of 1992, a foot of snow fell on the northeastern section of the Park. Dress in layers and always carry raingear. Another safety concern is contact with bears. The risks of coming in contact with a bear may be minimized with prudent and precautionary behavior. BEAR in mind, of course, that the fickle finger of fate will inevitably point to one of us sooner or later.

However, the statistics of bear attacks per Park visitations should provide comfort. Unfortunately, just prior to my first trek into bear country my neighbor kindly loaned me the book Mark of the Grizzly. I had already incurred some trepidation when I met a coroner, whose duties include deaths in Glacier National Park. I met the man at a Mule and Donkey Show in Drummond, Montana. He told me he wouldn't think about taking his family into the backcountry of Glacier, preferring instead to ride and hike in the Mission Mountains. Take the time to read the Park literature on bears. Your chances of being attacked by a bear are about one in a million. The odds are greater that you will be struck by lightning while hiking in the Park. But when there is lightning in the area, I don't stand around smelling the ozone.

Read all the Park advisories on avoiding bears. Here are some suggestions taken from the Waterton-Glacier Guide that each Park visitor receives.

"If you surprise a bear, here are a few guidelines to follow that may help:

• Talk quietly or not at all; the time to make loud noise is before you encounter a bear. Try to detour around the bear if possible.
• Do not run! Back away slowly, but stop if it seems to agitate the bear.
• Assume a non-threatening posture. Turn sideways, or bend at the knees to appear smaller.
• Use peripheral vision. Bears appear to interpret direct eye contact as threatening.
• Drop something (not food) to distract the bear. Keep your pack on for protection in case of an attack.
• If a bear attacks and you have pepper spray, use it!
• If the bear makes contact, protect your chest and abdomen by falling to the ground on your stomach, or assuming a fetal position to reduce the severity of the attack. Cover the back of your neck with your hands. Do not move until you are certain the bear has left....
• If you are attacked at night, or if you feel you have been stalked and attacked as prey, try to escape. If you cannot escape, or if the bear follows, use pepper spray, or shout and try to intimidate the bear with a branch or rock. Do whatever it takes to let the bear know you are not easy prey."

Because bears have an incredible sense of smell, Park guidelines remind fishers to use garbage cans to dispose of entrails. "When cleaning fish in the backcountry, puncture the air bladder, and throw entrails deep into water at least 200 feet from the nearest campsite or trail. Do not bury or burn entrails, as they will attract bears."

Finally, be sure to bring along plenty of mosquito repellant, a face net and a raincoat to protect yourself against pests and the elements. -Park newsletter

Campgrounds in Glacier National Park

Note: The following information was taken from the Waterton Glacier Guide, which is given to each Park visitor. You may request a copy by writing Glacier National Park, West Glacier, MT 59936 or by calling (406) 888-7800. Visit their web site at www.nps.gov/glac for up-to-date information.

"Campgrounds in Glacier provide just over 1,000 camp-sites. Most are available on a 'first-come, first-served' basis. Fish Creek and St. Mary campgrounds may be reserved ahead through the National Park Service Registration System by calling 800-365-CAMP.

"Campsites are limited to 8 people and 2 vehicles per site. Most campgrounds have drinking water, restrooms with flush toilets, and cold running water. Utility hookups are not available."

• Apgar: The campground opens May 7 and closes October 18. There are a total of 196 sites; 25 sites are set aside for RVs. The campground offers flush toilets and a disposal station.
• Avalanche: The campground opens June 18 and closes September 7. There are a total of 87 sites; 50 sites have lengths of 26 feet. The campground offers flush toilets but no disposal station.
• Bowman Lake: The campground opens May 14 and closes September 15. Bowman offers 48 camping sites, but RVs are not recommended (primitive road).
• Cut Bank: The campground opens May 8 and closes September 13. Cut Bank has 19 sites, but RVs are not recommended.
• Fish Creek: The campground opens June 1 and closes September 7. Offering 180 sites, three sites provide a maximum length of 35 feet. Flush toilets and a disposal station are provided.
• Kintla Lake: The campground opens May 21 and closes September 15. The campground offers 13 sites, but RVs are not recommended.
• Logging Lake: The campground opens July 1 and closes September 7. Logging Lake has eight campsites, but RVs are not recommended.
• Many Glacier: The campground opens May 28 and closes September 22. Offering 110 campsites, 13 sites have a maximum length of 35 feet. Flush toilets and a disposal are provided.
• Quartz Creek: The campground opens July 1 and closes September 7. Quartz Creek has 7 camping sites, but RVs are not recommended.
• Rising Sun: The campground opens May 28 and closes September 23. Offering 83 campsites, three sites have a maximum length of 30 feet. Flush toilets and a disposal station are provided.
• Sprague Creek: The campground opens May 21 and closes September 27. The campground offers 25 sites, but no towing units are allowed. Flush toilets are pro-vided.
• St. Mary: The campground opens May 28 and closes September 13. Offering 148 campsites, 25 sites have a maximum length of 35 feet. Flush toilets and a disposal station are provided.
• Two Medicine: The campground opens May 28 and closes September 13. Offering 99 campsites, 13 sites have a maximum length of 32 feet. Flush toilets and a disposal station are provided.