General location: The Middle Fork of
the Flathead River serves as Glacier National Park's southwestern boundary. The
Middle Fork is south of the West Entrance on Highway 2.
Maps: USGS
Glacier National Park (ISBN 0-607-32671-9); Montana Atlas and Gazetteer, p
83-84 (ISBN 0-89933-226-9)
Fishing conditions and species:
bull trout, cutthroat, lake trout, rainbow trout, and whitefish
Special restrictions:
If you fish the Montana side, you will need a Montana license. Within the Park
you must carry in your possession a copy of the regulations. Cutthroats are
protected and must be released.
The
only campground in the area is the non-fee camp-ground at Devil Creek. The
campground is 38 miles from the entrance to the Park.
The Middle Fork of the Flathead River By Steve Smith
When
was the last time you fished a river and a grizzly bear swam in front of your
boat? Or you came away from the day amazed that fish would live in such fast
water, let alone be able to see and rise to your fly as it sped by them? Or you
wondered whether you had fished during a whitewater trip or shot some rapids
while fishing? And maybe at the end of the day you exclaim, "Holy cow, it has
been such a great day, it wouldn't have mattered if we didn't catch a fish at
all" (even though you wouldn't re-ally mean that).
The
Middle Fork of the Flathead River punches its way through the mountains of
northwest Montana. From its beginnings in the Great Bear Wilderness area, the
Middle Fork offers a unique blend of scenery, wildlife and fishing in uncrowded
and pristine surroundings. From Bear Creek, where the river leaves the Great
Bear 45 miles downstream, to Blankenship Bridge, the river separates Glacier
National Park and the Bob Marshall Wilderness Complex (of which the Great Bear
is a component). Highway 2 and the Burlington Northern Railway run through the
canyon cut by the river, though they seldom impose on it.
The
Middle Fork is a freestone stream. Freestone streams are not overly rich in
nutrients, so the Middle Fork doesn't boast prolific insect hatches or even
predictable ones. What it lacks in numbers of insects, it makes up for by
supporting one of the most diverse arrays of aquatic insects in the lower 48
states. Understanding this is the key to success on the Middle Fork.
The
fish on the Middle Fork, primarily native westslope cutthroat trout and a
growing wild rainbow population, thrive in the cool, clear and fast water of
the river. They are accustomed to seeing all sorts of insects shooting by them
in the current at a high rate of speed.
Envision
a native cut-throat lying on the bottom just downstream of a fast riffle
waiting for the cur-rent to wash feed down to it. The trout snatches up a
stonefly nymph, scrambling along the bottom. Next, an emerging mayfly suspended
mid-depth floats by and is devoured. Then an adult caddis fly, bobbing along in
the choppy water on top, goes flashing by, and the cutthroat goes for it. What
the trout may not distinguish in its rush to swallow whatever feed the current
delivers is that the caddis fly is a number 12 Elk Hair Caddis on the end of
your tippet. The fish, forever famished, doesn't have the luxury of an in-depth
analysis on the Middle Fork. Chuck out a high-riding dry fly into choppy water,
mend like crazy and pay attention.
Westslope
cutthroat trout are indigenous to the river. The higher up the river, the more
you will find. The rainbow trout population is self-sustaining now and is
considered wild. The rainbows and cutthroats can inter-breed, resulting in the
"cuttbow"hybrid. Bull trout also are native to the river. Sadly, sediments from
logging roads have destroyed spawning habitats and heavy fishing pressure has
combined to dwindle the reserves of this fishery so that it is now illegal to
even fish for bull trout. Care must be exercised to properly identify fish
caught on the Middle Fork. Bull trout are often mistaken for brook and lake
trout which also inhabit these waters.
The
Middle Fork is included in the wild and scenic river system and so is looked
after by the U.S. Forest Service. Remember that the north bank of the river is
the boundary of Glacier National Park, which has a separate set of regulations
concerning camping and other activities.
Access
to the river is good, although a four-wheel drive vehicle is handy for some
boat launches. Bear Creek is the highest access point along Highway 2. Below
that is a rough, sandy access by the bridge at Walton. Paola Creek access is
downstream, followed by Cascadilla Creek access, Moccasin Creek access (the beginning
of the eight-mile Class III whitewater section and the most heavily used), then
the West Glacier access and finally, Blankenship Bridge, where the Middle Fork
joins the North Fork of the Flathead River. An excellent map of the entire
Flathead River system is available at the Forest Service station in Hungry
Horse.
Wade
fishing the Middle Fork, while possible, is limited by fast water and deep
pools between the runs. The best way to fish it is to cover some water, and for
this there is no finer boat than the McKenzie River boat. Whatever craft you
choose (don't even think about a canoe), be advised that even outside of the
white-water section, the Middle Fork is a fast, powerful, cold and remote
river. Blind bends, rock-choked chutes and numerous downed trees make the river
pilot's job a demanding and serious one.
The
river is frequented by a variety of big game animals, and some of them have
fangs and claws. Be aware that this is bear country, and mountain lions have
also been sighted along and in the river. Seeing them safely from a McKenzie
boat (remember, rafts can pop) is a memorable addition to any fishing trip.
The
Middle Fork is a great but relatively unknown river. The combination of the
Middle Fork's scenery, wildlife, fishing opportunities and uncrowded conditions
rarely is seen in one place all at once. Kindly give plenty of room to other
people fishing; there is plenty of it on the Middle Fork.
Seasons: The
Middle Fork can fish well in April and early May when spawning runs of cutthroat
enter the river from Flathead Lake. High water generally occurs mid-May through
late June. After July 1, the fishing continues on into October. Local inquiry
of river conditions or hazards is recommended.
Fly selections:
This is easy. Anything will catch fish on the Middle Fork as long as it is well
presented. If you are un-able to make a good presentation, try dragging a nymph
in front of the boat, or let your dry fly draw under the water at the end of
your drift. While anathema to the purist, these techniques are godsends to the
novice or flustered fishing guide. It ain't pretty, but it works.
About the Author:
Smith is an advocate of small tippets, large caliber rifles, V-8 engines, and
Labrador retrievers. He aspires to one day harpoon a jet ski. He spends the
summers rowing fly fishers on the Middle Fork near West Glacier, Montana. He
and the other fine fly fishing guides of Glacier Wilderness Guides may be
reached at:
Glacier Wilderness Guides
Box 330
West Glacier, MT 59936
(800) 521-7238
