Step 4: Decking and Oar Lock Frame

Decking and cockpit: Use 1/4-inch A/A or A/C plywood for the deck and cockpit rise. I used a piece of fir measuring 5/8-inch thick and 2-inches wide as a trim piece or gunwale on the cockpit rim. It was somewhat difficult to bend and clamp. A strip of 1/2-inch plywood would be easier to bend and attach. I first used paper and then a strip of paneling before I created an accurate pattern. Since I knew I was going to paint the boat in a duck-boat green, I was a bit sloppy with the application of fillet material where the cockpit sides meet the deck. In retrospect I wish that I had done a neater job and then sanded prior to the placement of the cockpit trim.

One mistake that I made was to leave out an in wale, which is a strip of wood placed on the inside of the sides of the boat at the sheer line. This would have given me something to screw the deck down in a uniform manner. I had decided against an out wale trim piece, but the inside piece would have made the job much easier. Note the oar-lock riser in the photograph below. Underneathe this support post, you will need to add a piece of 3/4-inch plywood so that the raised oarlock assembly has something solid to serve as a mounting plate. The oar-lock post is exactly 5-feet measured from the end of the boat at the transom along the chime.

Mounting Brackets for the Oarlocks: I took an oarlock with a 1/2-inch stem and searched out a piece of galvanized conduit at an electrical supply business. I had to really look around until I found a piece that didn't have too much "slop or play" in it when I dropped in the oarlock. I spread out the support arms about 18 inches apart. The angle of the vertical piece followed closely the angle of the side of the boat. Be sure the oarlocks are higher than your lap. Note that the seat for the rower just drops into a wood bracket.

Bulkhead / Sealed Air Chamber: From the nose of the pram back 2-feet, I sealed off as a floatation air chamber (another bulkhead). As of yet, I have not gone back and poured in a Styrofoam filler for this chamber.

Cockpit Assembly: Since the riser piece on the cockpit was curved, I needed something to push against, as well as something to temporary screw into. After the cockpit was filleted with one strip of fiberglass cloth applied, I cut off the inside wood riser supports for the cockpit panel, as I did not want these pieces to poke into my back when I am duck hunting and seated on the bottom of the boat.

Painting: Before I paint the boat a duck-boat green, I will apply a final coat of epoxy mixed with graphite to the bottom of the boat. If you decide to build this boat, feel free to contact me if you need more information. I hope that you enjoy the building process as much as I did. I know you will love the boat once it is on the water. I would really appreciate seeing a photograph of the boat if you build the Bitterroot Pram. Please pass on the name, Bitterroot Pram. Thank you.

One final note. The best river boat will only be as good as the person on the oars. Experience counts. I recommend that you read some articles on safe river-rowing. One tip I will offer from my short tenure as a policeman. Most rookie cops, when driving down a road or a highway, typically are looking ahead only a short distance. They have to be trained to look far down the road. The same is true of beginning rowers. Too often they are distracted by members in the boat, or their gaze downstream goes no further than the fly at the end of someone's flyline. The rower must always be vigilant and should be looking ahead 50 to a 100 yards downstream to plan for a safe route. I have never forgotten my experience when I flipped a raft years ago. It makes me sick when I come around the corner and see a scene like this.